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The Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 
Agua Negro S 
Before The Storm T,S 
Betty Does Brownsville S 
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 
Hook 'em Horns S 
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 
Leather & Lace  S 
Middle Earth T 
Pain at the Pump S 
Pick Pocket  S 
Pocket Change S 
Rise and Shine S 
Sophie's Choice S 
Spider's Line S 
Unknown S 
Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Canyon  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,500'
Location: 34.51328, -118.40175 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 17,249
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 25, 2011
Forecast:
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68°
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95° | 65°
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87° | 61°
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86° | 58°
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84° | 55°
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You & This Area
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The Egg, the First Corridor, & The Chicken (Hyperi...

Description 

The Canyon is the narrow shady canyon formed by the two huge sandstone conglomerate domes, the Elephant's Head and the Hatchery, nearest to the parking area. The Canyon can be accessed from either end, north or south, but the most straight forward is by walking around the south end of the Elephant's Head (aka the Chicken/Hyperion Slab) and following the trail as it winds to the right (north) and walk uphill between the The Egg (on the left) and the Elephant's Head (the huge formation on the right). There are climbs on both the west and east walls of The Canyon. Many easy and moderate sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.5 - 5.10b/c ascend the lower angled east (right) wall of The Canyon, with several two pitch routes, while routes on the west wall range from 5.9 - 5.11.

Getting There 

From the parking area, walk up the road past the locked white gate. Continue up the road for ~ 100 yds. until the crag comes into sight and take the dirt track, on the right, that diagonals down toward the crag with the caves on its east face (Elephant's Head/Hyperion Slab). Follow the dirt track down the hill and skirt the south end of the large slab (Hyperion Slab) and continue until the trail winds to the north (right) and up the hill into the First Corridor.
To approach The Canyon from the north end, follow the fire road from the parking area down the hill until nearly to the caves on the east face of the Elephant's Head. Take the path toward the caves and go right, and down the hill, skirting the right shoulder of the formation. Continue ~ 50 yds along the base of the north side of the Elephant's Head (this is the Pangea Wall) until The Canyon appears, on the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Canyon :
Agua Negro   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Betty Does Brownsville   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 88'   
Pick Pocket    5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Middle Earth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Sophie's Choice   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Leather & Lace    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Bilbo Surfs Galveston   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Before The Storm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Rise and Shine   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Canyon

Featured Route For The Canyon
Decoding the sequence on the headwall.

Bilbo Surfs Galveston 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : The Canyon
Begin climbing up a wide smooth crack-like feature with large cobbles and pockets. Climb to a high first bolt above the depression and continue up the apron to the base of the headwall. Move up and left on the ramp dto nice pockets on the steep bulging headwall. Climb the bulging headwall on shallow pockets and exciting features. Once above the bulge move up the featured slab to the arÍte. Gain the broad arÍte and move up and left to the anchor.dg...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Looking into The Canyon, from the north.
Looking into The Canyon, from the north.
Rock scar, in the First Corridor, caused by an ill...
Rock scar, in the First Corridor, caused by an ill...
A busy spring day on the east wall of the First Co...
A busy spring day on the east wall of the First Co...
The Canyon is full of quality climbing from 5.8 to...
The Canyon is full of quality climbing from 5.8 to...
Looking for a way off the Elephant's Head."
Looking for a way off the Elephant's Head."
Suzi leads in The Canyon.
Suzi leads in The Canyon.
The east face of the Hatchery, which forms the wes...
The east face of the Hatchery, which forms the wes...
Climbers kick'n it in the First Corridor.
Climbers kick'n it in the First Corridor.
A new sprig of the "Evil Weed" appears t...
A new sprig of the "Evil Weed" appears t...
Climbing in the shade, in the First Corridor, on a...
Climbing in the shade, in the First Corridor, on a...
Climbers on "Middle Earth" and "Poc...
Climbers on "Middle Earth" and "Poc...
Heavy vegetation growth along the trail to the sou...
Heavy vegetation growth along the trail to the sou...
Another beautiful day of climbing in The Canyon.
Another beautiful day of climbing in The Canyon.
Looking south from the First Corridor at Texas Can...
Looking south from the First Corridor at Texas Can...
What are these pallets doing in The Canyon? If you...
What are these pallets doing in The Canyon? If you...
The Canyon, as seen between the Elephant's Head an...
The Canyon, as seen between the Elephant's Head an...
A young Southern Pacific Rattlesnake traversing th...
A young Southern Pacific Rattlesnake traversing th...
A busy day in the First Corridor, with everyone ha...
A busy day in the First Corridor, with everyone ha...
Climbing steep pockets and inclusions in the First...
Climbing steep pockets and inclusions in the First...
Are there snakes in those holes? Not if there's a ...
Are there snakes in those holes? Not if there's a ...
Climbing in the cool shady recesses of the First C...
Climbing in the cool shady recesses of the First C...
A newly minted leader climbing the bolted 5.7 rout...
A newly minted leader climbing the bolted 5.7 rout...
It's Back!! After much effort to eradicate, by Spi...
It's Back!! After much effort to eradicate, by Spi...
With the recent rains the vegetation is blooming a...
With the recent rains the vegetation is blooming a...

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on The Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Edge
Apr 29, 2013
Climbed the next route to the right of Booty Route, felt like mid to upper 10 (c/d maybe?). Crux was definitely easier than booty route's, anybody got any actual info on this climb? Just curious what I am climbing. You can put it on TR if you rap to its anchors from the anchors to booty route.
Also curious what the next few routes immediately to the right are, looked at them but didn't end up getting on any. Any info?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 9, 2014
Jeff.....the route in question, to the immediate right of the Booty Route, is "Rise and Shine" (5.10C).
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