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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
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West Face, Direct Start 

The Campaigner 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ??? Ken Duncan or Jeff Achey???
Season: Good most of the year. In the winter you can get ok sun in the afternoon.
Page Views: 1,113
Submitted By: Luke Childers on Jan 29, 2010
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"The Campaigner." Located at "Castle Rock" in Bou...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the leaning, overhanging, corner crack just right of "Dead Line." Bicep pumping, under-clinging, crack fusion madness and solid, core tension coupled with a delicate dose of old school foot smearing should see you though to the more perplexing moves of pulling around the bulge and into the right-facing corner that joins with the ending of "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."

Great line!! Both powerful and technical climbing that is sure to entertain all those who attempt this obvious and attractive old school classic. Don't get ahead of yourself on this route and you should do fine.

Either 2nd the line on (TR) to clean it or continue to the summit (not recommended) via 1 or 2 short pitches if you wish. Beware of lose rock towards the summit if topping out "Castle Rock."

It's possible to (TR) this line by climbing "Rebellion" if you can get some gear in just around and under the crux bulge. Still...it's a much better lead!!


Location 

Located in the big roof area on the west side of "Castle Rock" just right of "Dead Line." It's the right-most, leaning, roof crack just before you turn the corner heading towards "Rebellion" and "Crank It."


Protection 

Gear to about 2 inches. Fixed anchor that is shared with "Rebellion" and "Victim of Circumstance."



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By Andrew Walters
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 12, 2012

Just got back from a rainy day aid practice session and this route was perfect. Great gear, and totally dry as opposed to the A2 roof crack next door.