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The Callahans

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Endless singletrack through old growth forests in the Pacific Northwest Near Roseburg, OR
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The Callahans 


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Location: 43.215, -123.5586 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Kevin W. Corcoran on Oct 16, 2008
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Description 

The Callahans are a series of partially-exposed cliff bands outside Roseburg, near the small town of Melrose. The land is owned by Weyerhauser Paper, and there are often logging crews operating on the land. Be careful while on the gravel road, as these are used frequently by logging trucks.

The rock is soft sandstone, and some sections are very crumbly and chossy. However, there is a wide selection of climbs on bullet-hard rock. The climbs often vary considerably within a single route, and it is not uncommon to go from steep jug-bashing to tenuous slab climbing on the same route. Most of the routes are of moderate difficulty (5.10-5.11). The Callahans are composed of several smaller crags made up of broken cliff-bands and large boulders. Many of the routes have easy top-rope access. Fixed anchors are the norm, but there are a few traditional routes. Many of the formations are too tall to lower off of with a single rope, and intermediate sets of anchors are common.

PLEASE NOTE: The Callahans are private property and should be treated as such. Climbers have had a good relationship with Weyerhauser in the past, and we should strive to maintain that. Be sure to not block the gate with your car, and BE ADVISED: THE CALLAHANS ARE CLOSED OCCASIONALLY at Weyerhauser's discretion, particularly when fire danger is high. Pay attention to all posted signs. There is usually a phone number posted that you can call for information on access issues on all Weyerhauser property.

For complete area beta, check out Rock Climbing Western Oregon: Umpqua by Greg Orton.


Getting There 

Take exit 125 off of I-5 and head west (right). Make an eventual left turn at the sign for "Melrose Traffic" and follow this road until it T's. Take a right at the T, and another right onto Touchstone road. Follow this until it turns into gravel, and go uphill until you reach the gate. Make sure to park downhill a bit on the pull-off and DON'T BLOCK THE GATE. Weyerhauser doesn't like that.

There is also an alternative approach which leads you to the top of the Callahans instead of the bottom. See Orton's book.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Callahans:
Paradigm Shift   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Turtle Rock
Relativity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Mind Planet
Backward Evolution   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mind Planet
Browse More Classics in The Callahans

Featured Route For The Callahans
Backward Evolution .10d

Backward Evolution 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  OR : The Callahans : Mind Planet
Starts with a few overhanging moves with big holds. Continue up the vertical wall passing several bolts finessing crux halfway up. Finish up steep buckets. Enjoy!!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of The Callahans Slideshow Add Photo
Winter climbing over valley fog in the Callahans, Oregon.
Winter climbing over valley fog in the Callahans, ...
Kristen on a beautiful day in the Callahans
Kristen on a beautiful day in the Callahans
Callahans from the parking spot.
BETA PHOTO: Callahans from the parking spot.
Cougar prints along Baseline Trail between Turtle Rock and Trolls Thrown.
Cougar prints along Baseline Trail between Turtle ...
5.9 lead sandstone, I forget the name of this one. It is on the east end of the Callahans.
BETA PHOTO: 5.9 lead sandstone, I forget the name of this one....
Comments on The Callahans Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 29, 2014
By g orton
Oct 17, 2009

Access for driving to the top of the Callahan ridge where you will find 6 trailheads (refer to pg 67 of Western Oregon Rock Climbing vol 2 Umpqua) is generally open Saturdays and Sundays October through March 15. Trailheads are currently flagged with pink flagging.

All other times park at the lower Touchstone gate and walk in (20 to 30 min).

The largest concentration of climbing occurs for about a mile stretch just of the top of the ridge. In 2007, there were 38 individual developments at the callahans and over 200 routes. There are still many rocks here without first accents. This is the best sandstone climbing on the west coast north of the Camino Cielo.

Where to stay the night: River Forks Campground has a group site and showers $$, many FS & BLM campgrounds up the N Umpqua River E of Glide about 45 min. $, hotels in Roseburg $$$, Camp in a pullout on BLM land just as you top the ridge on Callahan Road on your way to the upper gate; don't leave your camp unattended, free.

Winter climbing: It only takes a little bit of sun to wake up winter climbing at the Callahans. Rule of thumb: the heavier the valley fog the better the climbing. Walls that tend to dry first are Fantasy Island's south wall, Double Chocolate's Lizard Ledge, Mind Planet's south wall.

By Niki
From: Joshua Tree, CA/Healy, AK
Apr 23, 2011

If you are heading north on 1-5 you want to turn left of exit 25, not right.

The approach can be pretty strenuous if you are hiking it with a pack and are pretty out of shape, like myself, but totally worth it!

By cool beans
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 20, 2012

Anyone know if the area is still closed?

By Lorn Brace-Wessel
Sep 18, 2012

apparently there's over 200 routes there, but only a few listed here... does anyone know if there is a guide that has a good listing of the routes at the Callahans?

By JoeR
From: Eugene, OR
Sep 20, 2012

Lorn, Greg Orton's Oregon Rock Climbing: Vol 2 Umpqua the one you want.


He has released a series, each volume covering the crags in each portion of Western Oregon.

By sperry
Jun 15, 2013

hey there was wondering if any locals Knew if the callahans are open for climbing. ive heard it can be closed for bird nesting, or logging. I Also dont have a guide book is it easy to find or would you reccommend getting a book. was thinking of heading up june 22-23 Does it get super hot up there? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

By hotlum
From: Roseburg, OR
Jun 23, 2013

So I was going to climb at the Callahans this past Saturday, June 22nd and Weyerhaeuser closed the gate at the pavement even lower than the normal gate up touchstone lane. Having been a contractor that has worked up on that tree farm it might be closed due to fire danger. Any word anyone? I will ask around the logging community this week. Not much rain this spring, industrial landowners are anticipating a big fire year in these parts. A new no trespass sign was placed at the low gate also. Be somewhat advised.... and expect an extra 20 minute approach. FYI I decided to bag it until I find more info.....

By Weyerhaeuser Company
Jun 24, 2013

Weyerhaeuser property in the Callahans is closed to all public access at this time.

Access information for Weyerhaeuser land can be found by calling the Weyerhaeuser Hunter & Recreational Access Hot Line Number 1-888-741-5403.

Failure of pubic to obey access rules may lead to total closure of he area.

By gso
Aug 3, 2013

So latest update for the Roseburg area.
Acker is closed do to lightening fires in the area.
Callahans are closed for fire season. Once fire season ends and the access opens back up to climbing we now have a place 6 miles from Touchstone where climbers from out of town can camp.
================================================================

note: carry a shovel in your rig, 5 gallons water or fire extinguisher during fire season. No Smoking!!
If you know who's been leaving Camel butts in the past, do us all a favor and say something to him.
==================================================================
Areas still Open:
Honeycombs, if you haven't been there recently there are five new routes on the North comb in the Orange Bowl the three most obvious begin at a rock wall that was built under and large overhang. From left to right they are .9, .11a (right side of overhang), and .10a

McKinley Rock, we were there a couple weeks ago and the rock was fun. PG leads. Routes are about 400 feet.

Jurassic Park, difficult to avoid the poison oak on approaches. If you are sensitive to PO wear long sleeves and pants when approaching. Wash down with Tecnu scrub when you get to the base of the rock and back to the road. Approaches are short. G leads. Routes are 150 to 250 feet.

Youtklut Pillars, toproping requires two ropes, a 70m may reach not sure. Anchors are about 5 feet back from the edge so bring long slings.

Redman Tooth pinnacles, some PO on a short approach but it is avoidable. G and PG leads. Routes are about 200 to 250 feet.

Old Man, is accessible from the trailhead at the end of the road just past Soda Springs dam. G leads. If your looking for an Oregon classic try Dilley's Delight .8 crack, or The Prize 250 feet of exposed 5.11c with a scenic view of the North Umpqua River. There is a persistent poison oak at the base of the climb. I've seen people cover it with a small tarp.

======================================================================

By Johnny Ink
From: Portland
Oct 18, 2013

i'm going to be working in Roseburg the next 3 months. are there any climbing gyms?

By Matt2258
May 20, 2014

Hi all: Trying to work out from the Weyerhaeuser website/hotline if the Callahans are open, and if so, weekends only? Is the list of climbs in Aug 2013 post on this subject always open, or was that particular to that time of year? Lastly, if the area is open during the week, I would love to climb with folks any afternoon or evening Mon-Thur from now until the end of July. I will put an email in the forums section.
Thanks for any information.
Matt

By gso
May 29, 2014

Gates are currently locked at the Callahans.
Park at lower Touchstone gate and walk in.
If you need a place to camp call 541.670.0412, within 6 miles of Touchstone.
Climbing guide: Western Oregon Rock Climbing, vol 2: Umpqua available at While Away Books in Roseburg.
If there is a crowd when you are there Fantasy Island deserves more visits and was rebolted last Thursday.