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Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Meltdown 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Rycessica 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Voila 
Weather Report 

The Cage 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Hare & Gray 1982
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.

A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....

Description 

I'm glad nobody bolted this -- while quite enjoyable as a safe if you know what you're doing trad climb. It would be pretty lame as a clip up.

Rolofson's guide indicates that two trad climbs exist left of the leftmost bolted line. It wasn't clear to me what was what or even that there were two possible lines in the 5.9-5.10 range. What I'm describing here is the most obvious line, which starts about five feet left of Cirque du Soleil.

The leftmost line on Midnight Rock. The first 10m up a corner/crack are pretty continous stemming, laybacking and more with adequate but not always easy pro. After this section, diagonal up left on easy, unprotected, dirty slabbing to another crack which is followed to a walk off belay ledge.


Location 

The leftmost climb at Midnight Rock, starting just below a pod/alcove which leads to a thin crack in a shallow right facing corner. The Cage is about 5' left of the leftmost bolted climb, Cirque du Soleil.


Protection 

We had 1 ea 1-8 Rock and 1 cam in each size range from green Alien to #4 Friend which in conjunction with a couple of runners to drape over small horns, adequately protected the pitch. A small RP might have helped at the bottom.



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By david goldstein
Oct 3, 2006

I just noticed the Midnight Rock Left Side photo shown by the writeup for Flake Out and, remarkably, if the route markers on that photo are correct, the route I've described here is neither The Cage nor Birds of Prey, but something in between which starts just left of BOP and ends up at The Cage anchor.