I'm glad nobody bolted this -- while quite enjoyable as a safe if you know what you're doing trad climb. It would be pretty lame as a clip up.
Rolofson's guide indicates that two trad climbs exist left of the leftmost bolted line. It wasn't clear to me what was what or even that there were two possible lines in the 5.9-5.10 range. What I'm describing here is the most obvious line, which starts about five feet left of Cirque du Soleil.
The leftmost line on Midnight Rock. The first 10m up a corner/crack are pretty continous stemming, laybacking and more with adequate but not always easy pro. After this section, diagonal up left on easy, unprotected, dirty slabbing to another crack which is followed to a walk off belay ledge.
The leftmost climb at Midnight Rock, starting just below a pod/alcove which leads to a thin crack in a shallow right facing corner. The Cage is about 5' left of the leftmost bolted climb, Cirque du Soleil.
We had 1 ea 1-8 Rock and 1 cam in each size range from green Alien to #4 Friend which in conjunction with a couple of runners to drape over small horns, adequately protected the pitch. A small RP might have helped at the bottom.
|By david goldstein|
Oct 3, 2006
I just noticed the Midnight Rock Left Side photo shown by the writeup for Flake Out and, remarkably, if the route markers on that photo are correct, the route I've described here is neither The Cage nor Birds of Prey, but something in between which starts just left of BOP and ends up at The Cage anchor.