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 ADVANCED
Noon Peak
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The Cad  

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White, Bill Hardigan, Tom Bowker and Jay Golden, 1983
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 20, 2009

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Description 

There are two finger jam crack systems on this cliff. Do the system on the right facing the cliff sustained (5-6) with a Short 7+ crux horizontal traverse left. The climb goes directly up, then up to the right, then horizontally left and then up. Make ready for this rope drag by utilizing long slings. One of us pulled the wrong rope and we got the rope stuck. I prussic looped the stuck rope and free climbed the crack to the left at mostly (5-7) with a (5-9) section. I also had a lead rope on putting in gear. This crack is a straight line to the same Rappel root.

Location 

Highest and only section of Noon Peak worth climbing. Pristine granite.

Protection 

Lots of stoppers and a couple medium hexes or cams. Cliff ends on a ramp below the roots of trees. Pick a fat root and rappel from it.


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