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The Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttress T,TR 
Chimney, The T 
Fool on a Hill T,S 
Nose, The T 
Watusi T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Buttress  


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Location: 42.5193, -71.8591 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,261
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 12, 2007
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Description 

The Buttress is the area between Fisherman’s Wall and the Main Wall. The climbs are found on three faces. The south face of the buttress forms the right side of the large left-facing corner that contains Tarzan (5.8+, right-most climb on Fisherman’s Wall). The southeast face is a little farther to the right and marked by ledges and broken rock. There is also a long, bushy ramp that splits the southeast face roughly in half. The small east face contains the last two routes and is located just left of the Main Face. There is also a pair of climbs on ledge above Intertwine. Several of the climbs are typically done in two short pitches in order to minimize rope drag.

To descend the routes, walk of right and follow the trail down to the base of the Practice Face.

Getting There 

To reach The Buttress, follow the trail up from the gravel climber’s parking lot to the point where it intersects the climbing wall near Green Corner. Follow the base of the wall to the right. Walk along Fisherman’s Wall (the tallest and steepest face at Crow Hill) to the right until you come to a large corner. The south face is just to the right of the corner (look for a pair of bolts that mark Fool on a Hill (5.9)). Continue around the corner for the climbs on the southeast face. The final two climbs are found just to the left of Intertwine.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.3 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Buttress:
The Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Watusi   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
The Nose   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   
Fool on a Hill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Buttress

Featured Route For The Buttress
Start of The Chimney.

The Chimney 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  MA : Leominster Area : ... : The Buttress
The Chimney is generally done is two short pitches to avoid rope drag along the ledge. P1. Climb a short, vertical flake with somewhat broken rock. At the top of the flake, climb a right leaning corner past a couple of tricky section to an arete. Follow the arete to a left-leaning ramp above and belay just above the first set of bushes. P2. Continue up the ramp (very easy) to a nice, short corner with some chimney moves higher up. Climb the corner through the chimney moves and belay at tree...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

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