|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||1969 Kim Schmitz and Don Peterson|
|Submitted By:||Ed Hartouni on Jul 5, 2007|
|Comments on The Buttocks||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Dec 18, 2011
The chimney tunnel-through is cool. The start is kind of nasty with pro in exfoliating rock. Bring a big cam to protect the begining, followed by some pieces in the 1-3" range to get you into the chimney.
Worth doing once.
By Mark P Thomas
Feb 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.
There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.
A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.
This route is somewhat entertaining but you'll only do it once.