The Buttocks 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | 1969 Kim Schmitz and Don Peterson |
| Submitted By: | Ed Hartouni on Jul 5, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A crystally right facing corner is climbed to the chimney. The move into the chimney is the crux. No protection once in the chimney until you get up to the chokestones at the top.
Location Up and right from Doggie Deviations
Protection Standard Yosemite Valley rack.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Dec 18, 2011
| The chimney tunnel-through is cool. The start is kind of nasty with pro in exfoliating rock. Bring a big cam to protect the begining, followed by some pieces in the 1-3" range to get you into the chimney.
Worth doing once. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Feb 29, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.
There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.
A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.
This route is somewhat entertaining but you'll only do it once. |
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