|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999|
|Submitted By:||Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008|
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|Comments on The Bureau (Pitch 1)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kevin Neilson
Aug 28, 2009
|Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives.|
By Christian Mason
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stop reading if you don't want beta:
The bad sloper at the first overlap can be avoided all together. Before pulling the overlap work the feet as far right as possible. Hands on the good undercling.
Move the left hand up to the high side pull (just right of the bolt) while leaning way right.
Work the feet up.
Right hand to slightly slopey crimp (just above and right of the sidepull the left hand is on).
From here, it's one move up to better holds.
Cell phone video of crux sequence: