| Vampire Rock |
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The Bureau (Pitch 1) 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999 |
| Submitted By: | Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Ian hucking for the jug off the awful sloper...
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Description The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 3rd bolt.
Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....
Protection 10 draws is plenty.
...and taking the ride after missing the jug.
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| Comments on The Bureau (Pitch 1) |
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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Aug 28, 2009
| Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives. |
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