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 ADVANCED
Buzzard Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 
Ass Cannibal S 
Bulge, The S 
Buzzard Guts T 
Failure to Communicate S 
Half and Half S 
Kimberly T,S 
Melungian Brotherhood S 
Prajapati S 
Pulp Friction S 
Raising Arizona S 
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 
Three Amigos T 
Three Amigos Direct T 
Three Amigos Double Direct T 
Unknown 1 T 

The Bulge 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: All year
Page Views: 1,427
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Feb 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the start of The Bulge. The first ...

Description 

Very good climbing on with some great movements and holds. Crux seemed to the starting the route and the bulge at the top. There are some run out spots on easier terrain, may want to bring some smaller nuts or cams. The top half was pretty dirty so I don't think this route sees a lot of ascents.


Location 

Around 200 feet to the south of Raising Arizona, look for arching rock and a first bolt you could clip from the ground.


Protection 

10 bolts, small set of nuts, and some webbing for the top anchor. I belayed my second from a tree about ten feet below the clifline.



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By Mark Maier
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The start of The Bulge
The start of The Bulge


As you walk south from Raising Arizona a flake forms an overhang very close to ground level. There are two bolts on top of the overhang. The left hand bolt starts The Bulge. The right hand bolt starts Half and Half.

By Mark Maier
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are two cruxes, one over the first overhang and one over the overhang near the top. Both are protected by bolts above you. I think the upper one is 5.9 if you take it straight on and don't slide around to the right.

By Adam Marcus
From: Arlington, VA
Apr 6, 2014

The obvious belay tree that's about 10 feet below the top of the rock wall had some plastic taped around the base and didn't look strong enough to support a day of toproping. So instead, I built an anchor using 50 feet of static rope with one end tied around a big solid tree behind the top of the rock face and the other tied around a flake about 10 feet to the right of the normal belay tree. I then top-roped the route and placed some trad pro so my sportclimbing friends could "lead" the route. I used a #8 BD stopper (gold), and #10 BD stopper (grey), and a #3 Camalot C4 (blue). There was a fairly blank spot about 30-40 feet up where I couldn't find a spot to place any pro so I climbed a little higher and used a long cordalette attached to the cam.

By Thad P
Apr 12, 2014

Adam is correct. Don't belay or toprope from the tree 10 feet below the top of the rock. Even if you're just bringing up a second. It is not safe. There's a solid tree just behind the top of the rock face.

Great climb.