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Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
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The Buick 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Matt Juth on May 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Buick follows the cracks on the left.


This is the first crack around the corner from the Green Slab. Although short, it is very steep and has some fun, sporty moves.

Jam and edge up the angling crack system until it is possible to traverse around to the anchors for Green Slab, or set up an anchor and escape to the right.


A few wires and cams.

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Starting up "The Buick".
Starting up "The Buick".
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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 18, 2004

The wires are for the anchor, have hand sized cams for the climb, with a size larger for the bottom, and a few smaller for the middle. It's also a great toprope from the Green Slab anchors.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005

This is a fun route but quite strenuous. It is a fun TR after Green Slab. It would be quite a bit more difficult for me to lead than Green Slab due to the pumpy nature.

By goatboywonder
Aug 13, 2009

Fun lead, too bad it is so short. I did not use any wires but stopped at the bolts for Green Slab. Pretty strenuous but you can have gear anywhere you want it.