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The Buckeye Boulders

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Avacado, The 
Butt Cave, The 
Elephant Toe, The 
Low Life 
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The Buckeye Boulders  


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Location: 41.398, -71.7048 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,537
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Dec 14, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The Butt Cave aka Buckeye Roof area. This area is ...

Description 

This is a local bouldering area located along the North South Trail in the Burlingame Management Area. Over the years, desperate local climbers have scoured the woods looking for something climbable. Most searches have come to naught, as, though there is a lot of exposed rock in the area, most of it is short crappy clumps covered in moss. A few decent and sometimes quality scattered boulders and mini-ledges have been found though. This is probably the most concentrated cluster with easy access, with maybe a couple dozen problems or more, ranging from butt dragging lip encounters to some fairly scary highballs, mostly on the ledge along the trail. Last I knew, grades ran up to about V6 or 7.

If you park up the road at the larger spot with the kiosk, there are a couple boulders across the road. Just up the road a bit more (east), there is another gated dirt road, this time on your right. If you cross the road and stride back a hundred feet through the briars, there are two boulders. The further one has decent traversing problems.

Chris Smith developed most of the problems, though it is likely other climbers played on the rock earlier. After Chris, another group of locals found the area and had the fun of doing the first ascents all over again, so some of the routes have multiple names.

With most of the bouldering right along the popular North South Trail, keep you cleaning and landscaping discrete and be sure to brush off your chalk when done. Southern RI can be tick hell, and being right next to a swamp, ticks and mosquitoes may be bad here. Be sure to check yourself well for them when you get home. It’s best to visit in the winter when they aren’t so bad. Being a hunting area, wear your orange during season too, though nobody should be shooting near the trail. If you park at the small pullout, be careful pulling out. People fly around the blind curve.

Getting There 

Found in the northern part of the Burlingame Management, between Charlestown and Westerly, just off Buckeye Brook Rd, the area is a bit of a maze of small roads with the approach varying, depending where you are coming from. Check Google maps for the best driving directions. maps.google.com/maps?q=41.398,... For the main cluster park at the little pull off at 41.39797 -71.70477, which if you are driving east from 216 will be on your right, just after a sharp right turn. There is a DEM “no trespassing, hunting, fishing and trapping without written permission” sign, but I wouldn’t worry about it as they seem to be posted all around the whole management area, which is a popular hiking mountainbiking and hunting/fishing spot. A little way past, on your left, is a bigger regular parking spot with a kiosk at a sometimes gated forest road that you could use too, with a little bouldering across the road. From the first parking spot, walk in the old dirt road about 100 feet and drop down a gully to your right which brings you to the blue and yellow blazed North South Trail. The bouldering is along the trail in both directions on small ledges starting on your right and running left for maybe a couple hundred yards.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.0 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',10],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Buckeye Boulders
This line is VB, but a pleasant route. Chris Smith cleaned it off and climbed it, but another party later rediscovered it and called it "Cheese Wheel". It is the only name I can remember . This is located just to the left of the Buckeye Roof area (looking up from the NS Trail)and is the furthest climbable rock in that direction.

Chesse Wheel V-easy 3  Rhode Island : The Buckeye Boulders : The Butt Cave
Climb up the center of the slab to top out over bulge. Left of the Butt Cave....[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Photos of The Buckeye Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
The Briar Patch Boulder - It obviously needs recleaning. The seam continues around the boulder. With a brush and a bowl one could amuse oneself here for a little while.
BETA PHOTO: The Briar Patch Boulder - It obviously needs recle...
Boulder across the street from the kiosk parking. It obviously needs recleaning.
BETA PHOTO: Boulder across the street from the kiosk parking. ...
And yet another - across from the kiosk
BETA PHOTO: And yet another - across from the kiosk
another view - across from the kiosk. There are some nice features hidden in the picture under the lichen.
BETA PHOTO: another view - across from the kiosk. There are so...
Highball area- When this was clean the cracks and flakes offered some fun highball/solo routes of moderate grade. Off to the left, out of the picture up a slope, you will see a low cave capped by a bulge and a high slab. I did some more tenuous high routes there that were good, but I noticed yesterday that it had all grown back. They would need a full cleaning on TR to be doable again. This area is just before you get to the Avocado,and after passing the small 30 foot cliff that is midway.
BETA PHOTO: Highball area- When this was clean the cracks and ...

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