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Rapunzel's Tower
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Brute, The 
Dan's Problem 
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The Brute 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Thomas
Page Views: 873
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Apr 19, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The Face of the Brute

Description 

Start with two slanted crimps at about head height. One hard move gets you to a high left crimp, and then a wild dyno gains you the lip. Awesome climbing with great seats for the peanut gallery.

The sit start still awaits an ascent...


Location 

Middle Area.
Just left of Dan's Problem.


Protection 

Pads and Spotters.



Photos of The Brute Slideshow Add Photo
Norm getting some altitude, but coming up just a little short. Note: one of the chalked edges shown has broken and is now worse.
Norm getting some altitude, but coming up just a l...
Brute project, post breakage. Stand start. Close, but no cigar.
Brute project, post breakage. Stand start. Close, ...
Comments on The Brute Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 17, 2011
rating: V9 7C

I think the stand-start alone is V9. The right hand gaston broke (confession: I did it), and while it is less-than-good, you can still crank on it. The sit-start is much harder. Probably V10.

By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Apr 21, 2012

Yesterday Norm and I made the venture from LA with the singular purpose of putting this to rest. After an hour or so of reaquanting ourselves with the subtle body positioning, I stuck the first move but fumbled the set-up for the dyno. There were still hours of daylight left, and we felt good. It was going down.
I pulled on again, locked off the right crimp, and latched the small left edge. Then I was airborne and unceremoniously dumped at the base. The right hand start crimp broke.
There is still an edge on the wall, about an inch below the original. It is also no longer an incut. The siege continues, but this climb is getting harder...

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 22, 2012
rating: V9 7C

Sooo awesome. I love sandstone (not being sarcastic).

Good for you guys. Way to keep up the psyche!

By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Feb 2, 2013

Pulled onto this thing today for the first time this season. It is still really friggin' hard. Almost got the first move though, despite the broken hold. It WILL still go, but man oh man will that dyno be desperate.

Edit: Stuck the dyno during my last visit, but I didn't do the first move. This remains my nemesis.

By Tim King
Feb 7, 2013

Brute Project
Brute Project

Thomas was almost sticking this today. Multiple times was even closer than this, but I'm a shiety photographer so that's what you get.

This thing is rad though, and will be a great addition to Potters (especially from the sit; yikes!)

Edit: 2/14/13
Tom sent this one today from the stand. Started working the sit, with every move but one, but the link still looks ferocious.