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Newcastle Crag
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Boila, The 
Broon, The 
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The Broon 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Jake Burkey, Mark Limage. 1999
Page Views: 474
Submitted By: Owen Carver on Nov 20, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Working the large crack on 'The Broon' at New Cast...

Description 

Interesting choppy crack with enjoyable stem and lie-back maneuvers. Quite short, but full of an abundance of formations that allow any beginner with will-power to scramble up it with a smile. Feels easier if you have crack climbing experience.


Location 

Anchor is accessible by scrambling up the east side of the formation and walking to the obvious crack, but if it's your first time there you may want to be on belay while you creep down to the small shelf to set up the TR.


Protection 

Two bolts at the top. TR only.



Photos of The Broon Slideshow Add Photo
Still a fun route!
Still a fun route!
This crack really is pretty fun and the cleanest on the wall.
This crack really is pretty fun and the cleanest o...
Pretty cool movement for such a short route; cheers
Pretty cool movement for such a short route@SEMICO...
Always fearless Frank, onsight.
Always fearless Frank, onsight.
Comments on The Broon Add Comment
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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2006

IMHO the best route on the wall and the cleanest. Begin practically in the bushes and enjoy the good crack.

By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2006

Good TR but use longer slings at the anchors to prevent excessive wear on your rope. The bottom is pretty fun.