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The Broken Arrows 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007

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A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Arrow. The ...

Description 

This is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon.


Getting There 

About 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Broken Arrows:
Trads into Rads   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Left Arrow
Entrapment   5.9     Sport, 60 feet   Left Arrow
Old Punks on Crack   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Arrow
Cyber Crime   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Left Arrow
Happy Feet   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Right Arrow
Big Brother   5.11b     Sport, 80 feet   Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a     Sport, 60 feet   Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Perp Area
Browse More Classics in The Broken Arrows

Featured Route For The Broken Arrows
High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of The Broken Arrows Slideshow Add Photo
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while Joe finishes up Entrapment. Photo by Jason Hundhausen.

Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...