Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Broken Arrows

Select Area...
Left Arrow 
Perp Area 
Right Arrow 

The Broken Arrows Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 5,570
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Ar...

Description 

This is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon.

Getting There 

About 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet.

Climbing Season

For the Gilman Tunnels area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Broken Arrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Broken Arrows:
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Left Arrow
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Arrow
Big Brother   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Perp Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Broken Arrows

Featured Route For The Broken Arrows
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Broken Arrows Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...

Comments on The Broken Arrows Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!