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The Broken Arrows

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The Broken Arrows  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
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A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Ar...

Description 

This is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon.

Getting There 

About 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Broken Arrows:
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Left Arrow
Trads into Rads   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Arrow
Old Punks on Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Arrow
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Arrow
Big Brother   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Perp Area
Browse More Classics in The Broken Arrows

Featured Route For The Broken Arrows
At the crux roof on Cyber Crime.

Cyber Crime 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Left Arrow
Perhaps the best line on the wall, Cyber Crime offers a long pitch of excellent rock and movement. Begin as for Entrapment with some tricky moves up the narrow rib. Move onto the sheer slab, and briefly join Trads into Rads. Bust out right for more tenuous face climbing to a distinct crux at a small roof. Surmount the roof with good balance and continue more easily to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Broken Arrows Slideshow Add Photo
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...

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