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The Broken Arrows

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The Broken Arrows Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
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A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Ar...


This is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon.

Getting There 

About 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet.

Climbing Season

For the Gilman Tunnels area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Broken Arrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Broken Arrows:
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Left Arrow
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Arrow
Big Brother   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Perp Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Broken Arrows

Featured Route For The Broken Arrows
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Broken Arrows Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...

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