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The Broken Arrows

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The Broken Arrows  

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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 17, 2007
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A climber on "Entrapment" on the Left Ar...


This is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon.

Getting There 

About 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Broken Arrows:
Trads into Rads   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Arrow
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Left Arrow
Old Punks on Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Arrow
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left Arrow
Big Brother   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Perp Area
Browse More Classics in The Broken Arrows

Featured Route For The Broken Arrows
High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...
Broken Arrows Area. Rachael H. seconds OPOC while ...

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