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DescriptionThis is the "Main Area" of Gilman containing more than 1/3 of the routes. The cliffs here face SW, and so receive morning shade. This area hosts the longest routes and the best rock at Gilman, and is also home to the hardest routes in the canyon. Getting ThereAbout 100 yards after driving through the second tunnel, park at a small turnout on the left (below the route Out of the Shadows). Cross the road and descend into the shrubbery. Hop rocks across the river. This can usually be done easily, with large packs, without getting wet. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Broken Arrows:
Trads into Rads 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Left Arrow
Entrapment 5.9 Sport, 60 feet Left Arrow
Old Punks on Crack 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Right Arrow
Cyber Crime 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Left Arrow
Happy Feet 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Right Arrow
Big Brother 5.11b Sport, 80 feet Left Arrow
Under Siege 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Right Arrow
Hostile Takeover 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Right Arrow
Ecksteinator 5.12a Sport, 60 feet Right Arrow
Featured Route For The Broken Arrows
Hostile Takeover 5.11d NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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