The British Were Coming  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Andy Tuthill and Chris Ellms (8-9-75) Submitted By:  proto on Nov 19, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

1. Climb the steps and the dark corner above until it's possible to exit left into a V-grove. Belay at the top of the buttress (there is a not so good rap anchor at the far left end of the large terrace). 5.8

2. Climb diagonally right, zigzagging across slabs until you reach a short corner where it's possible to belay. This pitch wanders a bit and has difficult route finding. 5.8

3. Climb the corner and fractured slabs to a small roof. Step left to surmount the roof (crux) and belay above. 5.9

4. A short pitch leads to the base of the obvious bomb-bay chimney. 5.6

5. Climb the chimney to its top (gear deep inside the chimney - strenuous) and exit left and down to a good stance. 5.8

6. Climb slabs to the left, almost to a large dihedral, then back right to a belay on a ledge. 5.7

7. Straight up through a first overlap then slightly left through another overlap. Belay atop a characteristic block. 5.7

8. Easier climbing straight up to the top. 5.6

Location 

The route starts in a depression left of Duet Buttress. Start below a dark corner, at 2 large steps.

Protection 

Difficult route finding here and there. The gears are sometimes a bit tricky but it's generally reasonably well protected.