The Brickyard 

Can someone post a topo maybe? The descriptions leave something to be desired... (would be nice if the problems were grouped by boulder or all had a picture). Thanks dudes.

A reorganization of this area is in progress.

Read and learn:

www.king-dino.com/rant.html

We are ALL responsible. Pick up your trash. Nuff' said.

Unfortunately, the A-holes responsible probably don't read this site or king-dino.com. We should post the rant at the entrance to the Brickyard.

As a community we need to CONFRONT the people disrespecting this fantastic area.

I recently had a very disappointing interaction with someone unnecessarily chopping a tree and clearing a landing. This is only one instance of some of the crappy stuff I have seen.

Telling someone you don't approve is the only way to let them know their behavior is unacceptable.

Please DO NOT DRAW on the rocks! The Charlotte's Web area was covered in awful sidewalk chalk "art". If whoever did this needs to express their feelings about "peace, love, climbing" do it by picking up trash not graffiting the place. I spent a good long time brushing off the drawings and I really don't enjoy giving up my climbing time to pick up after assholes so stop doing this.

This seems to be happening at every area. Painted Cave, Brickyard, and Lizard's Mouth all have this bulls@!#. Really a bummer.

Any camping in the area? In a perfect world the free and non-sketchy variety...

Good slopers at the Brickyard Submitted By: Tim King on Feb 26, 2012

• beta spoiler*

Re: Tim King's question

We scrubbed and climbed that route last year, calling it The Rats of Nimh, due to the rodent-nest sitting on the starting jug. Bernd thinks he may have done it sooner, but he can't quite remember. We call it V5 or V6, depending on the day.

Hey there, climbing community of SB.

For the second time in the last year, I've had to mitigate forest-fire potential at the Yard'. On Friday night some campers dug a fire-hole directly under Grotesque Old Woman, and when I arrived for a bouldering session on Saturday morning, there was a SMOKING PIT OF ASHES. It was a hot and dry day, with a steady breeze. Eek. Needless to say, my friends and I had to sacrifice most of our drinking water to douse the pile of embers. That's not how I like to end a session of rock-climbing.

If you see potential culprits cavorting with fire at The Brickyard—or anywhere else in the hills— you might choose from the following options:

A) take a deep breath, remember that many of this generation were raised by the show "Jackass", and strongly discourage behavior.
B) Do nothing

I vote for option "A". I have many friends who lost property and/or possessions in the Tea and Jesusita fire. They might not be so understanding.

Encourage good sense. Reap the benefits.

Cleared out a few firepits the other day. One directly behind Charlotte's Web, the other under the start of Soot Patrol). Both blackened the rock pretty well, and the one near Charlottes still had some embers. Didn't get a chance to have a word with the people who left them (saw them on the way in) but I'll certainly do so if I see them around again...

Thanks, Tim. Can we clone you? Cause almost nobody else seems to give a shit.

Sure, though I can't guarantee you'll get only the positive characteristics, heh...

Really though, it's a lot of your little 'reminders' that have inspired some of the things I now do, such as always bringing a bag to pick up trash (makes it super easy to grab the little stuff, like cig butts, tape, cans etc) and just generally trying to leave the area nicer than you found it.

You want to climb here today, tomorrow and hopefully 20 years from now. Areas like this are rare, treat them with the respect they deserve.

If looking for a highly pleasant bouldering experience at the Brickyard I would recommend this circuit:

Deep forest arete->Way Under->Way under traverse->Charlotte's Web->Yeti->Watch the Dog->Smooth Criminal->Your project or move areas and keep it going with whatever problems you can think of. For a bonus do it in under 5 minutes.

Also maybe this deserves a separate discussion but I thought if people felt so inclined it would be cool to pool together some good circuits of all difficulties for the different SB bouldering areas (think Font minus the color coding). Any interest?

Great idea. I'll start mulling over my notes...

Okay, here's what I always did (back when I climbed there a lot): warm up on Yeti (3X), run up the hill and do Watch the Dog (3X), then Soot Patrol to the lip (3X), then finish by doing Akiba's Prison as many times as you can. If you fall off the latter problem before the end, get back on immediately and climb as far as you can.

This takes about 45 minutes to an hour if you keep moving. Think of it as a way to get tired quickly after work, if time is short.

Yeah circuit bouldering is one of my favorite 'styles'

The left side circuit is a bit more moderate but great at well. Usually the Coffee boulder amphitheater, to South Street, then Extremist, Shoehorn and finish with Font Problem.

A good warm up circuit, with some highballs off the bat to get the mind and heart going, with a few good tough sloper problems thrown in. And then it clears off the left side of the Yard and dumps you back near the middle for the rest of your sesh.

Nice, that was our idea too Andy...how to get a good workout in when you only have a little time after work. Doing many laps on Akiba's is definitely a good way to accomplish this.

Another one I used to try to do was a 4X4 consisting of Yeti, Sasquatch, Watch the Dog, and Soot Patrol to the lip. Not the most ideal since you have to do some running around but will get you pretty tired nonetheless and you can add harder variations of the problems if needed.


On a separate note does anyone know what's the deal with all the glossy chalk spots on the footholds of a lot of the problems at the yard (Yeti, Grotesque, Chralotte's...)? Many of these "holds" were loose flakes so I'm just a little confused. Was someone really bored and trying the lowest most awkward start possible for these problems? I believe they showed up last weekend sometime