2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Easy access and good top-roping make this a fun rock for a quick session, though the creek and road noise make it damn hard to communicate sometimes. We recommend a 60m rope for toproping; also, when tossing the rope from the top, watch out for the powerlines. Access to the top is via the right side of the rock. The chains at the top are set a little ways back from the edge; a five foot sling is helpful here. Be sure to put the rope through a 'biner; in the summer of 1998, two climbers put their rope through the sling only, and on rappel it burned through, killing one and injuring the other.
At 4.6 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon there is a turn off on the right side as the road curves left. You can literally belay from your car. The Brick Wall is on the north side of the road.
Per Adam Plunkett: this afternoon I was setting up a toprope on the bolts on the top of the route, and I heard and felt a large boulder I was sitting on shake. My partner heard it too. The boulder is more than big enough to kill anyone it hits.
True, the rock is not a "destination climb", but as an after work workout, or a low-key day in the sun, it's GREAT. The chains at the top make it an easy toprope, and personally, I wouldn't lead any of the climbs on the face--there aren't even enough micro cracks (Perfect Climb, to the left, is a good lead, however). Be aware, though--just because the approach and setup can be casual, this rock deserves respect: there have been more than one serious injury and at least one death here.
Be careful w/ a 60m rope as it just barely makes it (knot your rope).
The powerlines are quite close to the cliff, particularly if you are belaying a toprope, or pulling your rope at the end of the day. I thought this was kind of the spookiest part of my evening last night.
My recollection of the accident in the late '90s is that the guy bought a long piece of webbing, the webbing had a splice that was taped together (sometimes in a roll of webbing, it isn't just one continuous piece, so they often tape the end of one piece to the end of the next piece), he began to rap, and the splice pulled apart. He was a roommate of a good friend of mine. It was a major bummer.
Hey Adam, Was that the day there was a tremor in the state? If the boulder being loose is an issue, then it should be trundled off at a safe time as to not hit cars, etc. I do recall a boulder up there that wobbled when ya put your hand on i.t but otherwise it was pretty stable: i.e. not going anywhere soon.