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Middle Earth
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Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
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Middle Earth S 
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The Breeze 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby 1992
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Best belay situation ever.


This is a really good moderately overhanging 5.11. Crux down low leads to larger holds but pumpy climbing with a redpoint crux up high. There are a couple of kneebars on this route if desired. Scott originally rated this climb 11a. Try it and see what you think.


In the alcove 4th complete bolt line from the left up on the right hand platform. The route with the largest holds.


Bolts, Chains

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 12, 2015
By jbak
Apr 10, 2006

I don't really like giving this route 3 stars, but 2 doesn't seem right either. We should be able to assign HALF stars.
Jul 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Highly recommend bringing 2 double-length runners for the belay stance at the base of this climb.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Someone was nice enough to leave two nice biners at the top, making it easy to go up and down without having to untie.

This is a pure and simple steep jug haul. My type of climb! I didn't lead it but it will be a fun lead next time! Top rope it through the biners so that if you pop off you gotta start over:)
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Aug 19, 2007

5.11a if all hold's stay in place. Those chaulky slick hold's make it hard enough on TR.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Steep and pumpy. Making the reach between the 2nd and 3rd bolts seems far at the end of the day. Epoxy holds are a nice touch. If they were to blow, this thing would be nearly impossible.
By Braxtron
From: ...
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I really enjoyed this climb. Fun moves.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

this is an excellent climb. if you're working your way through the 5.11s on lemmon be sure to get on this gem; you don't find many climbs at the grade that are this steep around tucson.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

11a hahaha!!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I noticed those nice biners are getting pretty worn. If you are planning to TR the thing then use your own draws. If you are afraid you won't make it to the top, remember you can always yard the belayers side of the rope to get up to your draws. Another thing that help reduce wear is to flip one of them over so they aren't both wearing at the gate opening end. Thanks
By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Water runs just to the left of the climb and over a few of the upper holds after its rained. This can make things more exciting, but it may not matter as its just .10D.
By Luke Bertelsen
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Changed out the old biners with new ones at the end of July. Nice shiny wire gates up there for all.
By Brent Silvester
Oct 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I guess I must have found all the jugs, and managed to skip the bad holds. Perhaps, someone with less reach, or shorter than me might find it more difficult. It was originally rated .11a anyway . . . so .10d isn't that far off.

Comparing this to Planet Eater, I think this route is easier. I would imagine with wet epoxy holds though, this would feel considerably more difficult.
By Jimbo
Oct 8, 2009

11a if your tall with a plus ape index.

10d is a "bag" of Olympian proportions.

I think Planet Eater is easier and better than the Breeze.

I'm old and wise so I know what I'm talking about.

Thanks for the new biners Luke!! Great example for all to follow. (hint, hint)
By Brent Silvester
Oct 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ya'll are crazy, and maybe old.
By Chen
From: Tucson, AZ
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Just did this yesterday. Love the big moves on jugs. I think it is slightly harder than Steve's Arete but easier than Armed Robbery.
By Mitchell Beiser
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Good pump! Great big feature/holds that are hard to come by. Very enjoyable. Seems the low crux is very height dependent. Taller = easier. I agree with the 2.5 stars. Tons of glue yet I am glad the holds still remain to keep the route the 11 that it is.
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