|Western Spaces Wall
The Breathing Stone
|Type: ||Trad, 8 pitches, 1300', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Wonderley, David Evans|
|Page Views: ||2,627|
|Submitted By: ||DEE on Feb 20, 2004|
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Dave leading the first pitch, from the bolt he is ...
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A couple of hundred meters up canyon from the Black Velvet wall is the wall with this route. It is marked by a 50-60 foot across arching roof which sticks out 6-10'.Pitch 1: Climb the right side of a small pillar to a bolt (5.9) and then up the face above passing a total of 5 bolts (5.10a) till just below the left end of the roof. Place cams and surmount the roof (5.11a)to a sling belay at two bolts.Pitch 2: Straight up to a fp then up and right (2 bolts)to a ramp. Back left and up (5.9+ one more bolt) to a ramp/dihedral and belay at the dihedral's top (top of a small pillar) at two bolts.Pitch 3: Climb face up past 6 bolts (5.10-), veer left (staying away from loose stuff up and right) and up passing three more bolts (5.11/12) to a stance with 3 bolts.Pitch 4: Climb a crack on the headwall above passing one bolt (5.10b natural pro) to a sling belay.Pitch 5: Continue up the crack (5.10b) and head out right passing a bolt and two discontinuous cracks to a left facing dihedral(5.10a). Take the dihedral to the top and belay.Pitch 6: Climb the crack straight above passing two roofs and a wide section (5.10b).Pitch 7:Climb a short pitch up a right facing dihedral and belay on a ledge at the base of a 4th class gully.Pitch 8: Up the gully, out a ramp to the right (5th class) and the top.Descend gullys to the right with raps and downclimbing.
Standard rack to 4"
Apr 19, 2004
I don't remember anything about the descent except that it went easier than expected, I think Wonderley had done the descent before on one of his Western Spaces rts.
|By Jason Killgore|
From: boulder, co
May 4, 2010
descent beta: after completing wall, head straight, then turn right down major west-most gully. 1st rap is 30m off a slung tree. Some easy but exposed scrambling will get you to another exposed anchor on west side of gully, before wall steepens dramatically. A single 60m was not long enough for this rap. 70m might work, but two ropes may be necessary. Instead, we climbed back up the gully 50 yards and ascended a short 5.2 section which provides access to a brushy gully to the west. Descend brushy gully, making a short rap off a tree at a large chockstone. From there easy scrambling leads down to the slot canyon. Cross back over the slot canyon to north side and make traversing descent of slabs (low 5th class near end) until you can downclimb a small tree near the base of the route. Putting back on rock shoes for descent slab might be a good idea. It appears that fixed lines and wading will get you directly down the slot canyon if you make the two double rope raps instead of the brushy gully descent.
May 6, 2010
The line in the guidebook is significantly off from where the route actually goes. The crux pitch is much farther left, but the climbing on p3 (or p2 if stretching it out) is farther right. Either way, pull the roof, reach the belay atop the arrowhead pillar, follow bolts on the crux pitch, then head up and right to the left-most of the two major crack/corner systems that breach the wall.