|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Bonnie Prudden, 1964|
|Submitted By:||grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009|
|Comments on The Brat Direct||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 22, 2012
Often done as a Top-Rope. Several (non-Direct) variations are straightforward on TR which might be more fun than the Direct line given.
Perhaps the easiest "cheaters" route is to traverse way Left early before the obvious crux crack, then diagonal back up right, then traverse long Right just above the crux crack to a gentler slab. Up the slab, then Left to the final (unavoidable) high crux (? 5.6 ? choice of finger-strength on uninviting holds versus good footwork and balance).
Less-easy face-climbing variation is to go roughly straight up to the high crux - going roughly parallel to the Direct crack line, but about five feet to the Left of it.
(There's a harder finish on the face a few feet right of the final crux, and doubtless other harder variations at other heights.)
I've usually found that the obvious crack low crux has some interesting footwork and balance to get into it, but then the key move is just a tough grunt. Nice as a challenge, but it's the Variations that keep me + partners coming back to Brat every year or so.
From: Wayne, PA
May 8, 2012
|A bit of a grunt near the bottom, eases up considerably as you ascend. Gear is PG|