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Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain, The TR 
Chimney, The T 
Joe's Place T 
Nose, The TR 
Practice Session T 
Prize, The T 
Standard Route T 
Thriller Arete T 
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 
White Face, The T 

The Brain 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,576
Submitted By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: TR on The Brain


On the far right of Square Ledge, The Brain climbs up the suprisingly steep section of rock best categorized by the white blob of a protrusion that undoubtedly looks like a brain. Start above the dihedral system to the left, climbing up relatively pumpy moves to a steep and reachy top out. No worries though- your on toprope.


On the far right of the crag, left of the Practice Session crack. Look for the Crystal Blob.


Standard Rack for toprope anchor.

Photos of The Brain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another vantage of the great views while reaching ...
Another vantage of the great views while reaching ...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the Brain on The Brain
At the Brain on The Brain

Comments on The Brain Add Comment
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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 9, 2015

FYI this route has a deserved reputation as a toprope SHREDDER. The top of the climb is extremely rough and abrasive and it's hard to set a toprope without incorporating some lateral movement at the master point. Many a rope has been core-shot on this. Build a gear anchor above the route, extend the master point over the lip, and pad the snot out of your anchor rope or cordelette. Expensive and potentially dangerous if you are not extremely careful.

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