Drew Hayes focused up on M.E.N.S.A.
The Brain is a small crag with good bolted and gear lines alike. Mostly used as a warmup stop for routes located further into Beauty, this area also houses hard sport routes as well. The Brain can become crowded on busy days due to the few quality moderate sport routes located here. The brain is defined by runnels and grooves in the top half of the formation that resemble- you guessed it- a brain.
Take the steep trail on the left (the one with the sign) from the gravel road. Keeping the rock to your left, travel upstream, cross Short Creek and follow the trail. The Brain will be the first chunk of clean, climbable rock you encounter.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Brain
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Brain
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Brain:
M.E.N.S.A. 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Butta 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For The Brain
M.E.N.S.A. 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : The Brain
Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back ri...[more] Browse More Classics in WV