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The Brain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm T 
Brain Teasers T 
Brain Tweezers S 
Brain Wave T 
Butta S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 
M.E.N.S.A. S 
Mulatto Serpent S 
Out of Mind T 
Travisty, The S 
Whiny Bugs S 
You Want It, You Got It S 

The Brain Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.05292, -81.03339 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,249
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on May 18, 2007

51° | 44°

54° | 44°

49° | 31°

40° | 29°

45° | 30°

50° | 33°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Brain is a small crag with good bolted and gear lines alike. Mostly used as a warmup stop for routes located further into Beauty, this area also houses hard sport routes as well. The Brain can become crowded on busy days due to the few quality moderate sport routes located here. The brain is defined by runnels and grooves in the top half of the formation that resemble- you guessed it- a brain.

Getting There 

Take the steep trail on the left (the one with the sign) from the gravel road. Keeping the rock to your left, travel upstream, cross Short Creek and follow the trail. The Brain will be the first chunk of clean, climbable rock you encounter.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.7 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Brain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Brain:
Journey to the Center of the Brain   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Brain Wave   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 70'   
Brain Storm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   
You Want It, You Got It   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Brain Teasers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Brain Tweezers   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Butta   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
M.E.N.S.A.   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chunky Monkey   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Brain

Featured Route For The Brain
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew Hayes focused up on M.E.N.S.A.

M.E.N.S.A. 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Brain
Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back ri...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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