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The Box climbing areas
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Northern Box areas 
Southern Box areas 
Spook Canyon 

The Box climbing areas 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,800'
Location: 34.0045, -106.989 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 201,634
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bob Broilo on Jan 27, 2006
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Looking West from the Socorro Box. I shot these cl...

Description 

This area has a series of cliffs and boulders of mixed-quality rhyolite. Nice area for winter climbing and bouldering on days with mild winter temperatures. Summer can be hot and buggy, but shade can be found and many sport climbing faces are very pleasant in the mornings. One can find a plethora of moderate sport routes in the 5.10- 5.11 range, most of which are bolted, though some are mixed and require the occasional gear placement.

Though initial impression of rock quality may be disappointing, much of the rock is actually quite solid (and it varies depending on the area you are climbing at). Some of the looser faces have some routes that have had holds reinforced with glue, and some were chipped.

Well the climbing is fun, the bouldering is spectacular, particularly up at Alf Rig.

The best camping here is south of the cattle guard, south of the parking for the southern areas. There is a pulloff to the left that is sheltered from the wind and gets good morning sun.

Box can be broken up into four major areas to ease navigation:

Northern Box areas are accessed from the first large parking area. This parking area has a toilet, trash container, and information kiosk. Areas served by this parking include Red Wall, Waterfall Wall, Streambed, Dirt Wall, and Wine Wall.

Southern Box areas are mostly accessed by following the road south through the wash and up and over the hill. There is a good trail serving Major Wall, Alcohol Wall, Pocket Change, etc. on the northern end of this parking. Another trail on the south end of the parking near the cattle guard heads to Unbeatable Boulder, Tres Hermanans, Harmonica Convention, etc. Please don't park in the turnaround spot and please use the trails as this is a delicate environment.

Spook parking is accessed by turning off US60 before The Box.

The western Box areas generally are more scattered and require a bit more hiking. These include Alf Rig, Inflatable Hitler Wall, Hidden Wall, Dog Ball Banana Wall, and Mesquite BBQ Wall. There is no general parking and the trails are faint or overgrown.

Rack: 10 draws, set of wires, and a single set of Camalots up to #3 should be fine. Though, just a set of quick draws will get you up a most of the routes.


Resources 

Online:
- The Socorro Bouldering Guide:
infohost.nmt.edu/~bob/boulder_guide/socorro_boulder_guide.ht>>>

- An seemingly abandoned but promising guide to both the boulders and the cliffs:
www.enchantedtower.com
www.enchantedtower.com/PrintDrafts/02-Socorro_Preview.pdf

Guidebooks:
“Rock Climbing New Mexico” by Dennis R. Jackson. Incomplete and inaccurate, but currently the only in-print guide to the area.

"The Enchanted Tower, Sport Climbing Socorro and Datil, New Mexico" by Salomon Maestas and Matthew A. Jones, 1993. (Out of print)


Getting There 

Find Socorro on Interstate 25 (about 1 hour south of Albuquerque). From there head west on US highway 60, and drive about 7 miles. Keep your eyes peeled left as you cross a bridge (you are driving over the bridge that goes over the canyon), and you will see The Box to your left. Just after crossing that bridge turn left onto a dirt road. You will see a sign for The Box. Follow the road over and then down the hill about 0.25 miles, take a left, and you will find parking for the northern Box areas. The southern and western Box areas are about a mile further down the road to the south.


245 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',82],['2 Stars',110],['1 Star',42],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',8],['5.8',16],['5.9',19],['5.10',50],['5.11',40],['5.12',31],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',31],['V4-5',14],['V6-7',11],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Box climbing areas:
Pressure Drop   V1 5     Boulder, 12'   Southern Box areas : Unbeatable Boulder
Bitch Tits   V1 5     Boulder, 18'   Southern Box areas : Harmonica Convention (AKA B...
Heart-Shaped Box   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   Southern Box areas : Las Hermanas
Rubber Walrus Protector   V5 6C     Boulder, 16'   Southern Box areas : Harmonica Convention (AKA B...
Chewbacca   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Southern Box areas : Las Hermanas
American Beauty   V7 7A+     Boulder, 18'   Southern Box areas : Alf Rig
Red Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Northern Box areas : Red Wall
Liberace's Anus   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   Southern Box areas : Major Wall
Spiderman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   Northern Box areas : Red Wall
Barfly Blues   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall South
She Can Bolt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Southern Box areas : Major Wall
Juckets & Bugs   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   Southern Box areas : Major Wall
New Kids on the Block   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Pocket Change   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Southern Box areas : Pocket Change Wall
Bats out of Hell   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Southern Box areas : Major Wall
The Demon   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 45'   Southern Box areas : Major Wall
Full Penetration   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 35'   Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Ride the Lightning   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 45'   Spook Canyon : Spook Main Wall
Sinister Dane   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...
Browse More Classics in The Box climbing areas

Featured Route For The Box climbing areas
DTP using the undercling that broke to gain the sidepull

Ride the Lightning 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  NM : Socorro Area : ... : Spook Main Wall
Progressively more difficult climbing through tthe first half broken up by jug pockets. Big moves to an OK rest then a final boulder problem to the anchors.Start up a low angle slab to the left of the bolt line. Reach out and clip the first bolt then move up into some slots and a pinch on a block, clip bolt 2. Thin face climbing leads to the 3rd clip. Move up on some very small holds and very technical moves leads to a hard stand up and stab for the next good 2 finger pocket and the 4th clip, or...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Box climbing areas Slideshow Add Photo
Overview of Socorro Climbing areas (The Box, Minor Wall, Major Wall, and Alcohol Wall).
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Socorro Climbing areas (The Box, Minor...
Overview map of bouldering areas at Box with roads and parking areas
BETA PHOTO: Overview map of bouldering areas at Box with roads...
Geology of the Socorro climbing areas
BETA PHOTO: Geology of the Socorro climbing areas
Comments on The Box climbing areas Add Comment
Show which comments
By jbak
Apr 8, 2008

A lot of these routes were put up quite a while back...many of them are listed in my 1993 guidebook. I think they were put up before sport development really turned into an art. And it shows. Non-existent anchors, poorly placed anchors, too many shared anchors, too many unprotected bouldery starts, too many ill-considered bolt placements. It kind of takes the gloss off what SHOULD be a really fun area. The rock is great, the movement is good, but the route development is...not so good. I've never considered retro-bolting to be a topic even worthy of discussion, but this area has made me wonder. I think if I had just discovered this area and were doing the development, I could make it much better. It's not a big deal but I just thought I'd lob it out there. During the 3 days I was at Box I never saw any other climbers. I've never had that happen at Datil (which is not very far away). Is the quality of development part of the reason ?

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 18, 2008

Jbak,

Yes, I think that the way this area was developed is one of the reasons why this area sees so little traffic. While there are many good / great routes here, there are also many that are missing anchors, need supplemental gear, or were just bolted poorly (Spook Canyon for instance). One example is Hurt Me Not, this climb never saw any traffic prior to it's retrobolting, now their is commonly chalk on it. While I was disappointed at the additional bolts as it takes away from the FA and the few subsequent ascents, I never led it until the extra bolts were added, and it is a single pitch route in a mostly sport climbing area.

Another reason for lack of traffic is that this area needs a good guidebook. The 1993 guidebook is far better and more accurate than the error ridden new Falcon guide, where many routes in the guide either don't exist, are in the wrong location, or aren't mentioned.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 16, 2009

@jbak

It also really depends on the time of year that you visit Socorro. If Datil is climable in most peoples opinions, yes most will head to the Tower, but if you visit in the middle of winter on a weekend I would be absolutely shocked if you did not see others out unless you were purposely trying to avoid other by avoiding the sun. One of Socorros most redeeming qualities is that when everything else is too cold to climb routes Socorro is still generally pleasent.

In addition, a handful of routes are getting "fixed" from time to time, and yes the Falcon guide is terrible, incomplete and inacurrate but is the only guide currently availible. It probably has fewer than half the routes and none of the bouldering which is quite good in places.