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 ADVANCED
The Boulderado

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fistula T,TR 
Hell in a Bucket T,TR 
Ho Hum T,TR 
Idle Hands T,TR 
Jam It T,TR 
Jam It (Variation)  T 
Jazz on the Mezzanine S 
Mons T,TR 
Qs S,TR 
Suite 11 T,TR 

The Boulderado 


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Location: 39.9974, -105.4155 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,907
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Jam It, 8.
2. Ho Hum, 4.
3. Idle Hands, 6.
4. M...
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Description 

This south-west facing wall is a [possible] place to take a first-time climber. The staging area and the anchor access make it a potentially hazardous climbing location for the unwary climber. It has a number of easy climbs in close proximity up a clean open wall. Anchor placements are a little tricky though; the ledge up top, while safe, does not afford many things to set up an anchor with. Recommend bringing some long slings, and some cams to do the job right. Top Rope access is via a trail up the talus just left of the rock.

Be EXTREMELY careful accessing the anchors above these climbs if you toprope here. Lethal accidents have occurred too often here.

L->R:

A. Jam It, 8, 1p, gear or TR.
AB. Jam It (Variation) , 5, 1p, 100', gear.
B. Ho Hum, 4, 1p, 100', gear or TR.
C. Idle Hands, 6, 1p, gear or TR.
D. Mons, 5, 1p, gear or TR.
E. Fistula, 3, 1p, 30', gear or TR.

To the right on the block:

F. Qs, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.
G. Jazz On The Mezzanine, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Hell In A Bucket, 12+, gear or TR.
I. Suite 11, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear or TR.


Getting There 

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. The rock is directly across the road from the pullout.


Climbing Season


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boulderado:
Fistula   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Jam It (Variation)    5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Qs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Jazz on the Mezzanine   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in The Boulderado

Featured Route For The Boulderado
The crack is in the center of the photo.

Fistula 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a  CO : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado
This is a nice wide crack on a moderate pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Upcoming Events
Sep 20Mickey Mouse Re-bolt Day
Sep 26Reel Rock 2014 - South Denver
Photos of The Boulderado Slideshow Add Photo
New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top of Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons.  Red dots show access to anchors. <br /> <br />Be very careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. <br /> <br />Please toprope through your own gear, and not directly through the anchor rings. <br /> <br />Photo by Richard Rossiter.
BETA PHOTO: New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top ...
Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
This is the new quick link anchor (same bolts) at the top of Idle Hands, 8/6/07.
This is the new quick link anchor (same bolts) at ...
Comments on The Boulderado Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Cormier
Jul 25, 2001

Another great area for taking groups, especially beginners. Plenty of parking and easy approach. Need to be careful as the bottom has some exposure right above the road (it is possible to fall), same applies to setting up top rope anchors, as there is lots of loose footing. Bring long slings or static ropes to set up anchors.

By Anonymous Coward
May 18, 2002

Definitely a summer crag. Went here in February and froze my ass off! No sun exposure in fall or winter. Cool place, altogether. Qs is an awesome route, even though I froze trying to climb it.

By Richard Rossiter
Dec 29, 2002

A note on the history of the Boulderado. Up to 1987, no climbs had been described or published for this now popular formation. During the fall of 1987 when I was collecting data for Boulder Climbs North (published by Chockstone Press), I did solo all the routes shown in your photo. I also soloed the nice face left of Idle Hands. I do not know if any of these routes had been climbed previously. It really doesn't matter. I had never seen a soul on this rock, other than myself, until BCN came out the next spring. From that time on, it has been rather well frequented. I have thought more than once about placing some good bolt anchors at the top of each route, but have never gotten around to it. One reason is that for toproping, such anchors would be a little more dangerous to thread than the usual long slings from boulders and trees used until now.

By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Oct 20, 2003

Great area and great for beginners but IGNORE the directions used in the Knapp toproping book! The mileages are completely wrong and the map is largely useless. It took us two hours to find the place. (The route beta in the book is okay AFAIK.)

Boulderado is located about a mile up the road from Boulder Falls at a right-hand bend with a ten-car parking area on the left side. The climbing starts from a sloping ledge 40 feet above the road and the rock is obvious. If you hike more than 50', you've gone too far. The walkup for toproping is on the left.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2007

In mid-March 2007, Richard Rossiter placed four new toprope anchors at the Boulderado, atop Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. The Spot bouldering gym paid for the hardware and asked Richard to install the bolts and rings for the benefit of all users. See Photo.

Richard, who has the first known ascents of these routes, has been thinking about installing anchors here for several years; see Comment.

Please don't toprope directly through the anchor rings; use your own gear instead. And be extremely careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. Personally, I prefer to lead these routes to set toprope anchors.

By Mike Pharris
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 3, 2007

One of the bolts at the top of "Idle Hands" is missing a hanger as of July 2, 2007. Still plenty of opportunity for anchors with the boulders and trees, but if you were planning on using the new double bolts - you can't.

By Richard Rossiter
Aug 6, 2007

The missing ring hanger at the top of Idle Hands was replaced with a new quick link set up as of 8/6/07. I also checked the other three anchors for Jam It, Ho Hum and Mons. Everything is tightened down and set with red Locktite...should hold up for a while.

By Mark Kelly
Sep 9, 2009

Anybody find a pair of Katanas there 9/8/09?

By Adamatrix
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2011

Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree. Anybody pick it up Tuesday, July 12, 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail.

By Jason Watts
From: Boulder,CO
Sep 4, 2012

Tie in to something if you are going to place top rope anchors on this cliff. It only took one slip to cause a death on 9-2-12 while trying to set a rope.