Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New |
|
| Routes Sorted L to R R to L Alpha |
DescriptionActually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.] Getting ThereFrom the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Backflip 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
East Side 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches
Penis Chimney 5.9 Trad, Grade II
Inside Straight 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 R Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Fantasy Ridge 5.9 R Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Star Trek 5.10a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet
Romulan Territory 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
The Goose 5.10b/c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Bellyflop 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Between The Sheets 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches
Featured Route For The Bookmark
Inside Straight 5.9 CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Look for an obvious, left-facing corner a few yards west of Marginal Line. Straightforward chimney/laybacking with good face holds leads to more strenuous offwidthing. There are some helpful holds on the arete about midway if you want to turn around in the crack, but you can also just thrash on through with your right side in until you get to a nice fist-size crack. One more 5.9 move gets you over a fun roof to a friendly, finger crack leading up and left. This makes for a more inte...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
|