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Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]
From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.
32 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches
Backflip 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches
East Side 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
Inside Straight 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Fantasy Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 4 pitches
Penis Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Grade II
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, 3 pitches
Star Trek 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Romulan Territory 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Klingon (with direct start) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
The Goose 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Bellyflop 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Between The Sheets 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
Wigglin' Fingies 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Bookmark
Coleman's Complex 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
This awesome pitch is located in the gorgeous inset, left of Inside Straight and right of Virgin Spring. It's a brilliant, thin splitter that passes an overhang and the route continues up to the Library Ledge anchors (Melvin's). Bernard Gillett's book gives this pitch an "R" rating, which may be fitting, all the gear is small, the rock not so-travelled, and the crack a little weedy. But after watching J-dog piss on it, it looked pretty well protected. Nonth...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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