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DescriptionActually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.] Getting ThereFrom the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Backflip 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
East Side 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches
Penis Chimney 5.9 Trad, Grade II
Inside Straight 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 R Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Fantasy Ridge 5.9 R Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Star Trek 5.10a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet
Romulan Territory 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
The Goose 5.10b/c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Bellyflop 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Between The Sheets 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches
Featured Route For The Bookmark
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 R CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Begin up around the corner to the left from the start of Melvin's Wheel at a prominent, left-angling crack. P1 Climb the crack (and the face below it 5.7) for about 40 feet until it is possible to do a steep move or two up to the right (5.8) and around the corner onto the face. Work into and up a left-facing corner and belay.P2 Climb up to the ancient bolt, and then head up the slab a bit. I got a couple decent but not totally bomber TCUs in a flaring crack. Then, with your feet...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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