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The Bookmark

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bookmark  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,795'
Location: 40.40613, -105.53573 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 117,033
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]

Getting There 

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',6],['5.9',6],['5.10',9],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Backflip   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
East Side   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Inside Straight   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Fantasy Ridge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Penis Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Grade II   
Joy and Tribulation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches   
Star Trek   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
Romulan Territory   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Klingon (with direct start)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Goose   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Bellyflop   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Between The Sheets   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wigglin' Fingies   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Bookmark

Featured Route For The Bookmark
Unknown climbers on the fourth pitch. Photo taken from the descent off of the Bookend on 10/11/2003.

Fantasy Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Fun route with good position and some spicy climbing. The intricate and sustained third pitch is the jewel of the route.Hike around to the left of the large (100 foot high) flatiron leaning against the Bookmark. Go further, just around the SW corner of the formation and find a left-angling fist crack. P1 - climb up past the fist crack, about 10 feet left of where it starts, into a short finger crack that gains access to an easy slab on the south face. Climb an easy corner and belay near its t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Bookmark Slideshow Add Photo
The Bookmark, from the Bookend.
BETA PHOTO: The Bookmark, from the Bookend.
Bookmark area.
BETA PHOTO: Bookmark area.
The Bookmark from SE
BETA PHOTO: The Bookmark from SE
Fantasy Ridge climbers 9/13/8 on a one fine day.
Fantasy Ridge climbers 9/13/8 on a one fine day.

Comments on The Bookmark Add Comment
Show which comments
By pete cogan
Jun 28, 2003
A note on the rap chains which have replaced the "dead tree" anchors. As you rap into the gully off these chains toward the left book, you'll note two slings and a biner as you are very close to running out of your 60M rope. We put these on 6/28/03 as what used to be there was gone.
By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003
Adding to what Pete said above, the usual threaded rap slings in the gully have been removed. Apparently some selfish individual has delegated to the rest of the community their opinon on what constitutes an unacceptable way of descending the Bookmark.

A slung block (blue webbing with rap ring) can be found below by scrambling down the ramp next to the old rap spot. Better yet, if someone reads this who is heading up to the Bookmark, bring some black or grey webbing and a rap ring and re-establish the old rap anchor.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 12, 2003
There is now two large slings and two rap rings at the 100 ft. mark below the chains, when rapping toward the Left Book. Thanks to those who replaced them.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Jun 27, 2005
There is a new (for me) set of bolts and chains on the west side of the notch. About 90' down is a slung chockstone (two slings and two rap rings as of yesterday). This second rap brings you to a little easy scrambling and onto hiking terrain. It's a much better rap than heading down the east gully; especially if your packs are on the west side of the rock.
By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
Nov 10, 2008
Be very careful when pulling your rope off of the gully rap. A large rock fell from the gully and almost hit me and my partner. Be careful and have fun up there!
By Meg
From: Moab, UT
Jun 19, 2010
So, in a moment of sheer stupidity, I dropped my shoe off of the second pitch of Romulan Territory today. Much searching for it afterwards today did not turn it up. So, if anyone finds a left, Scarpa Vision shoe, I would LOVE it back! Thanks - Megan 303-842-2910.