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Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]
From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.
32 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 2 pitches
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches
Backflip 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches
East Side 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
Bookmark OW 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Penis Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Grade II
Joy and Tribulation 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 3 pitches
Inside Straight 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Fantasy Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 4 pitches
Romulan Territory 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Star Trek 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Klingon (with direct start) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
The Goose 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Bellyflop 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Between The Sheets 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches
Coleman's Complex 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Wigglin' Fingies 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Screamin' Eagles 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Rhythm Method 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b R Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Seams Like A Dream 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For The Bookmark
Between The Sheets 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Splitter, thin crack and face climbing on the West Face of the Bookmark. The guidebooks say to approach from the first two pitches of Fantasy Ridge. Sounds good. but we scrambled to the ledge below the crack. You can do it either way. The route is obvious from the ledge.P1 - Climb the thin cracks to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+.P2 - Traverse right to the buttress and face climb to the top. 5.10d....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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