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The Bookmark
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Backflip 
Bellyflop 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
Plan A 
Rhythm Method 
Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Sojourn 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
Time Machine 
Twiggy's Crack 
Virgin Spring 
Wigglin' Fingies 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bookmark 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: The Bookmark from SE

Description 

Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]


Getting There 

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II   
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   
Backflip   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   
East Side   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches   
Penis Chimney   5.9     Trad, Grade II   
Inside Straight   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Joy and Tribulation   5.9 R     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   
Fantasy Ridge   5.9 R     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   
Star Trek   5.10a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet   
Romulan Territory   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II   
The Goose   5.10b/c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Bellyflop   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Between The Sheets   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Bookmark

Featured Route For The Bookmark
Chuck warms up with some offwidthing on a chilly morning.

Inside Straight 5.9  CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
Look for an obvious, left-facing corner a few yards west of Marginal Line. Straightforward chimney/laybacking with good face holds leads to more strenuous offwidthing. There are some helpful holds on the arete about midway if you want to turn around in the crack, but you can also just thrash on through with your right side in until you get to a nice fist-size crack. One more 5.9 move gets you over a fun roof to a friendly, finger crack leading up and left. This makes for a more inte...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of The Bookmark Slideshow Add Photo
Bookmark area.

BETA PHOTO: Bookmark area.

Bookmark Pinnacle.

BETA PHOTO: Bookmark Pinnacle.

The Bookmark, from the Bookend.

BETA PHOTO: The Bookmark, from the Bookend.

Fantasy Ridge climbers 9/13/8 on a one fine day.

Fantasy Ridge climbers 9/13/8 on a one fine day.


Comments on The Bookmark Add Comment
Show which comments
By pete cogan
Jun 28, 2003

A note on the rap chains which have replaced the "dead tree" anchors. As you rap into the gully off these chains toward the left book, you'll note two slings and a biner as you are very close to running out of your 60M rope. We put these on 6/28/03 as what used to be there was gone.

By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003

Adding to what Pete said above, the usual threaded rap slings in the gully have been removed. Apparently some selfish individual has delegated to the rest of the community their opinon on what constitutes an unacceptable way of descending the Bookmark.

A slung block (blue webbing with rap ring) can be found below by scrambling down the ramp next to the old rap spot. Better yet, if someone reads this who is heading up to the Bookmark, bring some black or grey webbing and a rap ring and re-establish the old rap anchor.

By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 12, 2003

There is now two large slings and two rap rings at the 100 ft. mark below the chains, when rapping toward the Left Book. Thanks to those who replaced them.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Jun 27, 2005

There is a new (for me) set of bolts and chains on the west side of the notch. About 90' down is a slung chockstone (two slings and two rap rings as of yesterday). This second rap brings you to a little easy scrambling and onto hiking terrain. It's a much better rap than heading down the east gully; especially if your packs are on the west side of the rock.

By W. Spaller
From: Estes Park
Nov 10, 2008

Be very careful when pulling your rope off of the gully rap. A large rock fell from the gully and almost hit me and my partner. Be careful and have fun up there!

By Meg
From: Moab, UT
Jun 19, 2010

So, in a moment of sheer stupidity, I dropped my shoe off of the second pitch of Romulan Territory today. Much searching for it afterwards today did not turn it up. So, if anyone finds a left, Scarpa Vision shoe, I would LOVE it back! Thanks - Megan 303-842-2910.