The Bookend Rock Climbing
The Bookend, about 400 feet high, is the last cliff of the Book group, lying just to the west of the Book and the Bookmark (as seen from the Black Canyon trail). It has quite a variety of climbing, including the unique Orange Julius (5.10a); perhaps Lumpy's best slab route in Climb of Ancient Mariner (5.10a); and several long chimney routes on its south face.
The cliff is divided by a chimney known as the great dihedral; this lies on its eastern aspect, just right of the prow dividing the S and E faces. The chimney is very narrow at the bottom, and then opens up, reavealing a smooth wall inside with an obvious wide crack (Hot Licks). To the right is the long narrow slab of Ancient Mariner; to the left lies Orange Julius, which weaves a devious line up the aforementioned SE prow and is further identified by a large triangular roof near its bottom. The South face has three or four long chimney lines while the west face is fairly uninteresting and has one or two routes. The odd new-age bolted face route and 5.12ish crack test-piece can be found here and there throughout the cliff. The Bookend has some definite 3-star routes, though not nearly as many as the Book, and it is always less crowded.
Descent: quite uncomplicated for Lumpy Ridge: head NE from the summit, go down a short, easy gully/chimney, and then walk/bushwhack around down to the base of the cliff.
From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, hike west from the old Twin Owls parking lot for about a mile, turn right for the Book, and then left after a little ways for the Bookmark. An unmarked spur trail leads west shortly before the Bookmark, ending at the SE prow of the Bookend. Orange Julius
and the Great Dihedral
should be visible above and right. Some tricky scrambling is necessary to reach routes from Orange Julius
rightwards--see the individual route descriptions. ~40-45 minutes to approach.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Bookend
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bookend
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bookend:
Sorcerer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Hot Licks 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Handbook 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Sun King 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 2 pitches
Featured Route For The Bookend
Blood Feud 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b CO
: Lumpy Ridge
: The Bookend
This is a free variation of the route described in the [Gillett] Guide as Wide Gauge (5.7 A3) which starts on the route No Bozos (10c sandbag) and after 40 feet forks left into the Blood Feud. No Bozos is the "price of admission" into this stellar pitch with three distinct cruxes and an enduro rating. Redpointed with a couple of nuts in place (lodged after some hard falls), this is perhaps one of the best 5.12 cracks at Lumpy. This pitch takes solid gear the whole way....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Bookend, Bookmark, The Book.
Topo for some of the classic moderates.
Bookend from Bookmark. Climbers are visible on P5...
By Mike Carnes
Oct 17, 2005
I'm by no means anything better than a 5.10 climber these days, but I can talk shit at a 5.12 level, and when I do I don't need to reiterate everything said previously. So to Bob D., just let that shit fly, we're all up to speed on the previous remarks, you don't have repeat them. It's much more entertaining that way. For arguments sake, that slab would have been better at a place like Penitente rather than Lumpy, where almost everything's a bolted boulder problem.
By Nate A
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 18, 2005
I guess I'm out of the loop, but where is this slab that Spanky bolted? I hope it's not just L. or R. of the Winds of Fortune 1st pitch. I toproped the L. hand line last spring, noting the holds probably wouldn't last more than a few ascents, [definitely] not worth adding bolts. The rock quality on the R. hand line didn't appear much better.