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The Book

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Book Boulders, The 
Isis Buttress 
J-Crack Slab Area 
Pages Wall Area, The 
Renaissance Wall 
Tombstone 

The Book  


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Location: 40.40599, -105.53429 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 491,090
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

In the opinion of many, the Book is the finest cliff on Lumpy Ridge. It certainly offers the best non-wide crack climbing (if you like them wide, head for Twin Owls!). Many long, striking crack and dihedral lines grace the complex cliff, which rises to heights of 600'. Due to the cliff's predominant less-than-vertical aspect, many of these lines check in at under 5.10, though there are plenty of test-pieces at 5.10 and 5.11 as well. A few bolt-protected 5.12s are scattered about, and true hardpersons can attempt the 5.13+ crack line of Country Boy, first freed by Tommy Caldwell.

Some recommended routes would include Pear Buttress at 5.8; Loose Ends and J-Crack at 5.9; Fat City, Cheap Date, and many others at 5.10, and any of the 5.11 routes such as Howling at the Wind that ascend in or near the Howling dihedral. The Renaissance Wall and El Camino Real are said to be good 5.12 routes. The Book also has many 1-pitch routes (including first pitches of longer lines) which are a good alternative if the weather looks iffy for a longer route. Fixed anchors seem to come and go, however...

DESCENT: From the very top of the cliff, one can walk east a ways, beyond a steep broken area, and then contour back to the base (long and easy). Many routes end just above the "Cave" on the right side of the Book. From here, scramble out on a narrow ledge east to its end, and downclimb a groove (or do a short rappel from a tree a little ways out). From the bottom of the groove, go southeast (easier but longer) to walking terrain, or head southwest down more grooves to a cairn at the top of a east-angling chimney/gully. Go down that and one more chimney to walking terrain. Like the east slabs descent in Eldorado Canyon, this shorter descent should not be attempted in the dark or when wet unless you are familiar with it. No rappel route exists that I know of and none is needed.

Getting There 

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. The Book is a complex cliff; here is an attempt to describe it. Starting from the east, as you view the south-facing cliff from the Black Canyon trail, note a broken area of slabs and gullies (the Cave descent). Just left is the beautiful J-Crack Slab, sporting the very long parallel crack lines of Femp and J-Crack, and several other excellent crack lines to their left. Above are some reddish overhangs on the right, a cavernous overhang (The Cave!), and to the left, a short, steep headwall capping the cliff. ~45-50 minutes to approach.

The next major landmark is the Howling at the Wind dihedral, a massive, overhanging left-facing corner which extends about halfway up the cliff. Many superb and intimidating free lines attack this feature and the overhangs nearby. Left of it are narrow, smooth slabs, with an arching roof band about 150 feet up. The next section is obvious: an area of deep grooves which extend the entire length of the cliff, known as the Pages Wall. Left again are two massive chimneys running the entire height of the cliff (Book of the Dead Chimney and Requiem Chimney). A narrow prow between the two, known as the Isis Buttress, offers many excellent routes. The western-most chimney includes the brilliant Renaissance Wall, home to numerous hard bolted & naturally protected climbs. Left of the west-most chimney the cliff becomes broken and unappealing for a long stretch and no routes are recorded here. Below this broken area is The Bookmark, a subsidary cliff about 400 feet high, described elsewhere.


Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

79 Total Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',11],['5.10',20],['5.11',24],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Book:
Osiris   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
Pear Buttress   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches   J-Crack Slab Area
George's Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
Femp   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   J-Crack Slab Area
J-Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   J-Crack Slab Area
Loose Ends   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   J-Crack Slab Area
High Plains Drifter   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
Cheap Date   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   The Pages Wall Area
Visual Aids   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   J-Crack Slab Area
Outlander   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
Fat City Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
Ramses   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Isis Buttress
Thindependence   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   J-Crack Slab Area
Howling at the Wind   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
The Final Chapter   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Grade II   The Pages Wall Area
Living Dead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Isis Buttress
Corner Pump Station   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches   The Pages Wall Area
Dead Boy Direct   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   Isis Buttress
Monkey on a String   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 60'   J-Crack Slab Area
El Camino Real   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch   The Pages Wall Area
Browse More Classics in The Book

Featured Route For The Book
Getting into the thin of it...

High Plains Drifter 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Lumpy Ridge : ... : The Pages Wall Area
High Plains Drifter is a high quality, mostly face variation to Fat City. Keep in mind that some of the bolts are spaced a bit. This is not a sport climb.Approach via Fat City or The 44 and belay after the 10c crux roof. from this belay step left onto the slab and climb the THIN 10b crack straight up to the first bolt. The other and perhaps safer option is to continue up Fat Citys third pitch for 10 ft then cut left on an undercling to the first bolt. Taking the undercling makes the climb 10a bu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Book Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Popular routes.
BETA PHOTO: Popular routes.
BETA PHOTO
View of <a href='/v/left-book/105833341'>Left Book</a>, <a href='/v/the-bookmark/105744823'>The Bookmark</a> and the Book as seen from the southwest.
BETA PHOTO: View of Left Book, The Bookmark and the Book as se...
BETA PHOTO
The Bookmark and The Book
The Bookmark and The Book
The Book descent in "Mixed" conditions.
The Book descent in "Mixed" conditions.
BETA PHOTO
Full south face of the Book.
BETA PHOTO: Full south face of the Book.
The Book and The Bookmark (left)
The Book and The Bookmark (left)
The Book
The Book
The Book from the junction of The Book trail and the main trail on 6/17/07.
BETA PHOTO: The Book from the junction of The Book trail and t...
Bookmark to Right Book.
Bookmark to Right Book.
The Book area from the approach trail.
The Book area from the approach trail.
Rebecca and Omar climb somewhere on 'The Book' at Lumpy Ridge, as seen from somehwere else on the same crag. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Rebecca and Omar climb somewhere on 'The Book' at ...
The upper part of The Book walkoff.
The upper part of The Book walkoff.
BETA PHOTO
At least 6 parties around The Book.  As viewed from the top of Backflip.
At least 6 parties around The Book. As viewed fro...

Comments on The Book Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Aug 9, 2008
What route starts on a boulder straight downhill from the Book of the Dead? It has two bolts, then goes up a thin crack/left-facing corner.
By david goldstein
Aug 9, 2008
Brian, the route you're asking about sounds like Shinbuster.
By Bernard Gillett
Aug 10, 2008
My guess is that Brian is referring to Time Machine, which is located on a 40-ft block just right of the base of The Bookmark (not listed on this site as of 8-10-08; a 5.11b Lawrence Stuemke route from 1995).
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
May 4, 2009
It would be great to have a separate section in here for the Renaissance Wall. I would be happy to write it up as well.
By Lee Landkamer
From: Golden, CO
Jun 17, 2012
I found a pair of trekking poles at the base of the Book on 16-June, 12. Contact me with a description and I will get them to you.