The Book of Prophesy Var. 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | M. Nad, J. Nad |
| Submitted By: | grk10vq on Aug 27, 2009 |
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Rob running it out on the Book of Prophecy Variati...
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Description On the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.
Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.
Location About 70' above pitch 1 of Sticky Revelations is a ledge. On the far left side of this ledge is an anchor and the start of this right facing crack corner. Its the only and most obvious crack on this side.
Protection This crack takes mostly small to medium protection. A full, single rack up to 3", stoppers, slings and draws will work just fine.
Looking down Book of Prophecy
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Bullet holes at the first belay ledge on Book of P...
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| Comments on The Book of Prophesy Var. |
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By marryellenman
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 29, 2011
rating: 5.8
| This climb was a lot of fun I combined the left bolt line on breaking the sabeth with book of prophesy for one long climb. Lots of fun, just use alot of long runners and rope drag should not be a problem at all. My largest cam was a #4 cam but the run out (about 15 feet) was not bad. The crux is before the crack widens and protected well with a #1 Cam. |
By JP Shrewsbury
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.9
| I climbed this route on a top rope from the Book of Prophesy rap station, reached by traversing the upper part of the 'regular' P2 to "Sticky Revelations" (S.R.). The start was reached by rapping to the large P1 ledge above "Breaking the Sabbath." This variation was the most fun of all the S.R. pitches. It was considerably more difficult than the other P2s of S.R. and about as hard (but slightly less exposed) than the 5.10a third pitch. I rate it at 5.9. |
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