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 ADVANCED
Monsters from the Id
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abominable Snowman S 
Boogieman , The S 
Cosmic Monsters S 
Doctor No S 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Heaven S 
Heavenly Monsters S 
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 
Little Demon S 
Monster Crossing S 
Parallel Universe S 
Source of Madness S 
Stone Monkey S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
White Zombie S 

The Boogieman  

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Eric Mushial 11/98
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 5, 2013

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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Boogieman is another bouldery sport piece on this unforgiving chunk of rock. Climb the 1st 2 bolts of Heaven before breaking right on to the steep arete. Some very strenuous moves as you tackle this obvious feature passing the "goldfish" hold. Don't let down your guard until you are clipping the anchors.

This route is the start to a couple of link ups: Freezer Burn (5.13c) starts on Boogieman route, and traverses right under the roof to finish all the way over on Journey to a Mushroom Planet. You can also finish on Parallel Universe to make it a little easier. Steady Slobin (5.14b) climbs Parallel's start and finish up this route's arete.


The long crux sequence of The Boogieman:


Location 

Start on Heaven then up the arete between Heaven and Parallel Universe.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor.


Comments on The Boogieman Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 11, 2013

This always felt hard for the grade. I think it's a lot harder than the other 13c's in the area (though there aren't that many of that grade, surprisingly). Whoever shot the video of Boogieman called it 13d, and I wouldn't really argue.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 12, 2013

thats great to know jay :) cause it felt somewhat reasonable to me and im not too up on that grade :) now linking it might be a different story haha...
By Brian Nugent
Feb 4, 2013

I'm not sure if this is true as I only recently tried the route but I heard that the "goldfish hold" had broken and that it had gotten harder. If this is true it would support the 5.13d grade. It probably wouldn't change the grade of Steady Slobbin.
By James Otey
From: NH
Apr 7, 2013

The left hand crimp after the goldfish hold broke after the guidebook was published. It changed from a decent 3 finger edge to a heinous 2 finger edge.

This up's the difficulty to around 5.13c or d.

One of the best routes at the cliff!