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The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.
Hike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque.
24 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Boneyard
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boneyard:
Oink! Oink! 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
One-Armed Bandit 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 80'
Hijacked Project 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 47'
Son of a Wanted Man 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 73'
Lucy Goosey 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Armed Insurrection 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 80'
Tanduay Time 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Tao Bato 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Haggis, Neeps and Taties 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Gym Jones Approved 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 72'
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Bangers and Mash 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Hoosierheights.com 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The First Fast Draw 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Sweet Tater 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
The Last Slow Draw 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Glide 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Flying Serpents 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Featured Route For The Boneyard
Gym Jones Approved 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Boneyard
A fun, pumpy outing with a sit down rest about 1/2 way up to keep the pump factor low. Boulder up to a good ledge about six feet up to establish yourself under a huge roof. Lean out, grab the big, chalked jug at the lip and go for it. Swing up and over on good holds making fun moves to the first bolt. This move is committing and high enough that you should definitely stick-clip the first bolt before starting. Above the big roof, follow big holds up to another smaller ledge where you can squeak o...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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