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The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.
Hike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque.
25 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Boneyard
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Boneyard:
Oink! Oink! 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
One-Armed Bandit 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 80'
Armed Insurrection 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 80'
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Gym Jones Approved 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 72'
Bangers and Mash 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Glide 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For The Boneyard
Bangers and Mash 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Boneyard
Climb up to the ledge and traverse right to clip the first bolt. Find a hidden hold to get past the first bolt and then bust out a move to get past the third and onto a ledge. Rest up and contemplate the rest of the route. Climb some slopey moves to reach jugs just left of a vertical rib. The last couple bolt lengths often get people....[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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