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Lower Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aids Victim T,S 
Amy Carter T 
Bird's Nest Overhang T 
Blood Transfusion T 
Bone, The T 
Brass Balls T 
Catapult T 
Clean Love T 
Fault, The T 
Flying Frog T 
Idiot's Delight T 
Idiots journey T 
Mr. Clean T 
PG Advised T,S 
Shriek of the Mutilated T 
Smut T 
Vertebrae., The T 

The Bone 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,989
Submitted By: Eric8 on Apr 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Jake Evans pulling the Bone move.

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My favorite route at Castle Rock feels a little like the gunks transplanted here in Washington. You have to do an approach pitch to smoke out ledge. From the right side of the ledge climb up a crack, then traverse left out onto the bone, a massive roof jutting out from the wall, heel hook? campus? there are a number of options. Continue to the base off upper Castle or belay along the way.


Off the right side of smoke out ledge. The best cleanest approach is to climb The Fault and continue up to smoke out ledge via Canapult(the dihedral) until you reach the obvious ledge.


Gear to 3.5

Photos of The Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Jake Evans below the Bone roof.
Jake Evans below the Bone roof.
Airy crack climbing leads to the Bone roof.  Jake ...
Airy crack climbing leads to the Bone roof. Jake ...

Comments on The Bone Add Comment
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By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 20, 2010

I backed off this, there's not much pro for the roof pull, gonna nut up and do it next time!
By RandyR
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What an exciting pitch!!! You MUST look down after your feet cut and see all that air under you. I must disagree with Keenan...I thought the protection for the roof is great. A #5 Camalot gets you a cam above your waist for the roof pull, or a #3 gets you one at your feet.
By CaseyC
From: seattle,wa
Jul 31, 2012

There is bomber pro right under the roof. Number 4 or 5 camalot should keep you safe and sound while you flail!
By Chris Doll
From: Spokane
Sep 6, 2013

I love the crack leading up to the ledge below the roof, and the moves over the roof are amazing with bomber hands and pro available. Too bad the climbing above the roof is just dirty rock.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

In the 1965 guide this route appears to be known as Penstemon route. Beckey describes it as the next overhang right of Catapult with a triangular roof. 1st ascent by Eric Bjornstad, Dave Hiser. in 1964 5.7, A3. Kramar credits Jim Yoder , Paul Christiansen, 1979 with 1st ascent of the Bone.
By DobbsyDobbs
Sep 26, 2015

The roof scared the crap out of me, but what a fun move! I'll have to try cutting my feet next time and watch them dangle in the air!
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