The Bond Boulders are a collection of several enormous blocks, on the approach to the main Loveland area, that offer a number of high quality bolt-protected face climbs on above average rock.
This is a good area to visit with a number of high-quality face routes and an easy approach, across mostly flat terrain, that is ideal on those frequent cold and windy days. A nice spot to climb and experience the quiet side of Josh.
Walk northeast from the Split Rocks parking area, following a faint path, for about a mile to a collection of large chocolate brown boulders on your left. These are the Bond Boulders; walking past these will take you to a large wash (Desert Queen Wash) where a left turn will lead to the majority of routes in the Loveland area.
This fun route is the right arete of Bad Cop Rock (aka: Boulder 1) which is the large light-colored block just uphill from the Live And Let Die Boulder (aka: Boulder 2). Very well-protected with fun and varied moves for the entire length of the climb - too bad this doesn't keep going for another 100' or so. A recommended route for the area nonetheless. Good position, great moves but grainy rock and on the short side. Two stars out of five. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I agree that the Bond Boulder area is a great place for peace and quiet, great climbing with moderate to stiff (For me anyway) climbing on well protected and real good rock. 60m rope more than enough, handfull of draws, Bino's help locate the climbs (They are all around), extra webbing to extend some of the raps avoiding drag when pulling,etc...Certainly an area to seek out on those super crowded weekends if you wish to "Jtree Sport". I have found a bit of "Sandbagging" exists. But hey! This is Jtree!
Here is the scoop on the Bond Boulders and Names given to the individual boulders with establcihed routes:1. Bad Cop Rock (aka Boulder 001) [Located behind and left of Boulder 002 (the one with Live & Let Die, etc.). It has 6 routes from 5.7 to 5.11b]; 2. Boulder 002 [has 4 routes including Live & Let Die and Moonraker]; 3. Boulder 003 [in front of Boulder 002; has 1 route: Oddjob 10c on north side]; 4. Boulder 004 [Has Eva Las Vegas and RCA, behind and right of Boulder 002]; 5. Boulder 005 [boulder behind and right of Boulder 003; 1 route Loose Man 5.9+]; 6. Boulder 006 [The light colored Boulder lies to the right and downhill from Boulder 005 and to the right of Boulder 004]; and 7. Boulder 007 [The huge boulder that lies about 75 feet right of Boulder 004, 2 routes and an unfinished arete (11c/d)].
It would be better to refer to which boulder each route is on; it would be best to actually call each boulder a separate formation, but that may be a little hard at this point.
The two bolt route on north side of Boulder 002 (?) has an old aluminum hanger and a Leeper. Could use replacement. Also, there are MANY rattlesnakes in the area. I saw three while climbing there on 11/19/03.
The route with the 2 old bolts is Oddjob on the north side of Boulder 003. If you look at the photo on page 467:
Boulder 002 is the large boulder front and lower center (routes 3206 & 3207).Boulder 003 lies in front of this, the top just barely showing at the bottom of the photo.Boulder 001 has a obvious arete and lie behind (and mostly hidden) the apex of Boulder 002.Boulder 004 has route 3204 markedBoulder 005 is above an slightly right of Boulder 004.