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Newcastle Crag
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Boila, The 
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The Boila 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jake Burkey, Mark Limage. 1999
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Owen Carver on Nov 20, 2009
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Working 'The Boila' at New Castle Crag.


Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor.

Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.


Anchor is accessible by scrambling up the east side of the formation. The anchor rests 1.5' over the edge 10' east of the anchor for 'The Broon'. Have someone belay you to the anchor. (Or take much more time and use a .5 cam and small nut to create a safety anchor for yourself while you set up the top rope. See included images to see where I placed my protection.) Too dangerous to set the TR without a backup, unless you like hanging unprotected over cliff edges.


Two bolts at top [w/ recently added bolt for safe anchor setup]. TR only.

Photos of The Boila Slideshow Add Photo
Setting up TR on 'The Boila'.
Setting up TR on 'The Boila'.
Moving to the overhanging rock edges on 'The Boila' at New Castle Crag.
Moving to the overhanging rock edges on 'The Boila...
Optional protection placement for use when lowering down to set up top rope on 'The Boila'.  Located 6' straight back from anchors.  I recommend just having someone body belay you to the anchor instead of this.
Optional protection placement for use when lowerin...
Final crux move on Boila
Final crux move on Boila
Comments on The Boila Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 14, 2010

There is now a good pro bolt (1/2") on top to anchor to when setting up this TR- look for it in a recess about 4' above the anchor.