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The Bluffs

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Despatched T 
Kama Sutra T 
Missing Link T 
Scorpion T 
Scorpion Corner T 
Thunder Crack T 

The Bluffs  


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 13, 2007
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Description 

The Bluffs are perhaps the largest, most prominant features at Arapiles. They are a series of buttresses that extend out from the back of the Mount forming the right wall of the Central Gully. Bluff Major is the largest and furthest back of these, followed by Bluff Minor which sits in front. Several smaller formations are also encompassed in this area, including John's Pinnacle, Bard Buttress, Fang Buttress, and the Plaque Area (the last three of these being listed separately).

Climbing ranges from long moderates to short, difficult testpieces. Must do lines include Blockbuster (5), Missing Link (9), Scorpion (10a) and Scorpion Corner (11b), Quo Vadis (10b), Thunder Crack (10c), Kama Sutra (11+), Despatched (12a), Station to Station (12b), and Final Departure (12d). Grades are YDS.

Getting There 

Approaches vary depending on what part of the formations you are going towards, but the vast majority are approached via the Ali's scrambling route... this passage is on the north side of the Bluffs facing the campground. One can also pass through the bluffs via Ali Baba's Cave, a tunnel through the formation. On the other side is a long ledge system called Flinder's Lane. Many high quality routes begin from here, which is just on top of the Tiger Wall. Descent from the top of the Bluffs is via rappel. Ali's can be reversed to reach terra firma.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.5 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bluffs:
Missing Link   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Scorpion   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Thunder Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Scorpion Corner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   
Despatched   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in The Bluffs

Featured Route For The Bluffs
Me hanging out at a rest before the final section while Hardy hangs out at the anchors of Scorpion Direct.

Scorpion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Bluffs
Start either from the anchors of Scorpion Corner or on the ledge right of Quo Vadis. Put in a piece and step over the void and work around the roof into the exposed bottomless chimney. Don't worry it's not actually bottomless, just 100 feet off the deck. The climbing is fairly straight forward but a bit old school and a bit mental. After pulling around the roof it turns into a mellow handcrack up until it widens at the very top.An absolute classic moderate. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging crack
bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging cr...
Josh Laitila on Scorpion Corner
Josh Laitila on Scorpion Corner
The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.
The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.
The start of Final Departure, 27, a classic of the grade
The start of Final Departure, 27, a classic of the...
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major; Andy Anderson belaying Swedish climber Gustav.
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major; Andy Ande...
Josh  on Scorpion Corner
Josh on Scorpion Corner
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major
Josh linking Scorpion corner and Kamasutra
Josh linking Scorpion corner and Kamasutra

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