The Bluffs are perhaps the largest, most prominant features at Arapiles. They are a series of buttresses that extend out from the back of the Mount forming the right wall of the Central Gully. Bluff Major is the largest and furthest back of these, followed by Bluff Minor which sits in front. Several smaller formations are also encompassed in this area, including John's Pinnacle, Bard Buttress, Fang Buttress, and the Plaque Area (the last three of these being listed separately).
Climbing ranges from long moderates to short, difficult testpieces. Must do lines include Blockbuster (5), Missing Link (9), Scorpion (10a) and Scorpion Corner (11b), Quo Vadis (10b), Thunder Crack (10c), Kama Sutra (11+), Despatched (12a), Station to Station (12b), and Final Departure (12d). Grades are YDS.
Approaches vary depending on what part of the formations you are going towards, but the vast majority are approached via the Ali's scrambling route... this passage is on the north side of the Bluffs facing the campground. One can also pass through the bluffs via Ali Baba's Cave, a tunnel through the formation. On the other side is a long ledge system called Flinder's Lane. Many high quality routes begin from here, which is just on top of the Tiger Wall. Descent from the top of the Bluffs is via rappel. Ali's can be reversed to reach terra firma.
Climbing Season For the Mount Arapiles area.
Weather station 15.4 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Bluffs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bluffs:
Scorpion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 80'
Missing Link 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Despatched 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For The Bluffs
Blockbuster 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Australia
: Mount Arapiles
: ... : The Bluffs
From the Bluff's sunny side, move left along the ledge until you reach the obvious crack up the slab that breaches the middle of the left summit block. Climb up this, with holds and step-features everywhere, protection always abundant. Move through a slightly more vertical section, then step back left, and enjoy the romp to the ledge, then dance up the blocks......[more] Browse More Classics in International
bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging cr...
Josh Laitila on Scorpion Corner
The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.
The start of Final Departure, 27, a classic of the...
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major; Andy Anderson belay...
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major
Josh linking Scorpion corner and Kamasutra