The Bloodline 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Todd Battey, Dave Evans, Craig Fry & Rob Stahl 3/89, FFA: Eric Erickson, Craig Fry & Todd Battey |
| Submitted By: | Vernon Stiefel on Dec 18, 2005 |
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Bloodline
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Description Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the ledge where the route ends. Maneuvering around the plant to avoid being pricked requires extra care; especially for the second!
Descend to the top of the rap anchor for Jamaican Bobsled.
Easily 5 out of 5 stars!!!
Protection Camming units to 1", small to medium stoppers, and QD's for four bolts. Medium cams are needed for an anchor.
| Comments on The Bloodline |
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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 20, 2005
rating: 5.12a
| Following during the initial traverse is spicy for the second. Exercise caution on some of the loose flakes.
Bobby P. (pictured on "Eureka" in photo submitted by DEE) onsighted this route!! |
By D. Evans
Nov 3, 2009
| The FA party did the route free and rated it 11d. EE repeated it later and rated it 12a. I don't think Fry and Battey were with him on that occasion. Not sure where this FFA nonsense came from. |
By Craig Fry
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| This was my route, I worked it about 3 days and couldn't get past the crux 5.12 section mid way up the crack, Todd did a lot of work too. Todd came up with the name.
Meanwhile, they may have aided it, I don't remember that, and is disturbing to report it as an aid route (I'm not sure why it was?)
But I got Eric Ericsson to come out as my rope gun, and he fired it, he said it was 5.12 a/b. I followed next, along with everybody else.
Why would DE say I didn't do it with EE, has his memory completely failed him!! |
By Rob Stahl
Feb 10, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| I am pretty sure that Todd Battey and Dave Evans climbed the route free. I climbed it with 1 fall at the crux. I also placed the bolt below the 1 finger hole from a hook. The hold I was hooking on subsequently broke off, making the move to the "hole" a little or difficult.
The first lead I heard about without a fall (redpoint) was by Eric, but I wasn't there. Don't remember who told me about that, but seemed credible at the time. |
By D. Evans
Feb 12, 2011
| It was our route, there was no "my route" about it. |
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Feb 13, 2011
| I drilled one of the bolts and pushed the high point at the time;....It's MY route......me, mine, my........(Don't be stealing my route;....dont' even look at it.....look the other way....)... |
By D. Evans
Feb 13, 2011
| Todd (G), thanks for reminding us! |
By Battman
Aug 26, 2012
| Here's what I remember. The Bloodline is one of the cleanest cracks at JT with some tricky thin face moves to get to the start of the splitter. I remember trading leads, yo-yo style, to get to the crack. Gordo and others had their moments of glory pushing the high point. We pushed it from the gound up. My best ground-up effort involved a couple hangs, and by the time I had done that A1 ascent I think some of us had top-roped this beautiful line. I remember Craig took another strong climber out there to bag the first lead, and he was shut down. When we took E out there, and it's OUT THERE, he fired the lead. He deserves the credit for the first clean lead. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Jan 6, 2013
| Hey Battman....nice summary of the events surrounding the FA of Bloodline. Great route name as well. |
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