|377 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10- [details]|
|FA: ||unknown; FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodrigue, Alan Bartlett, Tom Atherton & Todd Gordon 1/90|
|Submitted By: ||Woody Stark on Oct 14, 2003|
BETA PHOTO: The Block.
Photo by Blitzo.
This is a short, clean route up a small block that is, in my opinion, 5.10b/c. It's located on the left side of the Feudal Wall and is a good way to end the day.
one bolt, pro to 3" (including anchor)
|By Steve Powell|
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 23, 2003
I enjoy this route also. Tricky start of the ledge.Not easier than 10a. 10b, probably not.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
Well, personally I believe that this climb is a one move 5.10a, the rest is about 5.8. Worth doing, make sure you take a TCU for the horizontal. The bolt's a long way up.
|By Chrys Mitchell|
Dec 18, 2003
I'd have to agree with Woody Stark's rating (though I may be influenced by having done the route with him). Perhaps we took a different line beyond the bolt than the "one move 5.10a" line? At any rate, the line we took had three or four moves of ten, and the hardest move seemed harder than .10a. I'd second the recommendation to take gear for the horizontal, though. The bolt is indeed a long way off the deck.
|By Woody Stark|
Dec 18, 2003
The next time I'm around the area, I'll do it again and look for the other line. It won't be the first time I "discovered" a harder way to do a route.
|By Woody Stark|
Jan 21, 2004
Okay, I went back. I climbed a line a bit left of the bolt and straight up to the top of the rock. Two comments: it's at least a 10b and deranged. The route probably swings to the right a bit and to the crack. I'm making much of this because upon glancing back at the route, I realized that going my way would result in a bounce or two if one popped near the summit of the rock; go for the crack.
|By C Miller|
Feb 1, 2005
This climb is aka - Teenage Mutant Ninja Brits. Really short and forgettable, but it doesn't quite deserve a bomb IMO. Squeaks by with half a star out of five.
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 15, 2005
I have led this thing and also top roped it as we did today. I find it more fun on a top rope because you can get off route and make it more difficult without the worries of falling. It is not a bomb as mentioned by someone else, but unless you want to just "tick" off a 5.10a or every other rock of the grade is crowded, this one certainly is not a "must do" in my opinion. But since it is so short, when it's all winding down, give it a whirl.........has a move or two you might remember.....
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 22, 2006
Bring some finger to hand sized cams for the first and final horizontal cracks. Those combined with the bolt make this a safe lead. There are two bolts at the top but they are just hangers and require a walk-off to the left.
Sep 15, 2006
Short, but tricky!