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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
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The Block 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown; FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodrigue, Alan Bartlett, Tom Atherton & Todd Gordon 1/90
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Oct 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: The Block. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is a short, clean route up a small block that is, in my opinion, 5.10b/c. It's located on the left side of the Feudal Wall and is a good way to end the day.

Protection 

one bolt, pro to 3" (including anchor)


Comments on The Block Add Comment
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 23, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoy this route also. Tricky start of the ledge.Not easier than 10a. 10b, probably not.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Well, personally I believe that this climb is a one move 5.10a, the rest is about 5.8. Worth doing, make sure you take a TCU for the horizontal. The bolt's a long way up.
By Chrys Mitchell
Dec 18, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I'd have to agree with Woody Stark's rating (though I may be influenced by having done the route with him). Perhaps we took a different line beyond the bolt than the "one move 5.10a" line? At any rate, the line we took had three or four moves of ten, and the hardest move seemed harder than .10a. I'd second the recommendation to take gear for the horizontal, though. The bolt is indeed a long way off the deck.
By Woody Stark
Dec 18, 2003

The next time I'm around the area, I'll do it again and look for the other line. It won't be the first time I "discovered" a harder way to do a route.
By Woody Stark
Jan 21, 2004

Okay, I went back. I climbed a line a bit left of the bolt and straight up to the top of the rock. Two comments: it's at least a 10b and deranged. The route probably swings to the right a bit and to the crack. I'm making much of this because upon glancing back at the route, I realized that going my way would result in a bounce or two if one popped near the summit of the rock; go for the crack.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 1, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb is aka - Teenage Mutant Ninja Brits. Really short and forgettable, but it doesn't quite deserve a bomb IMO. Squeaks by with half a star out of five.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 15, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I have led this thing and also top roped it as we did today. I find it more fun on a top rope because you can get off route and make it more difficult without the worries of falling. It is not a bomb as mentioned by someone else, but unless you want to just "tick" off a 5.10a or every other rock of the grade is crowded, this one certainly is not a "must do" in my opinion. But since it is so short, when it's all winding down, give it a whirl.........has a move or two you might remember.....
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Bring some finger to hand sized cams for the first and final horizontal cracks. Those combined with the bolt make this a safe lead. There are two bolts at the top but they are just hangers and require a walk-off to the left.
By Blitzo
Sep 15, 2006

Short, but tricky!