The Blarney Stone  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  John Musso Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Apr 3, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Blarney Stone climbs the line just left of the...

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Description 

It's doubtful this route will instill any magical powers, however, it does feature a beautiful headwall of fun, 5.10- pockets. Unfortunately, the fun bit is guarded by a diffiuclt boulder problem and some sharp crimps on the approach.

Stickclip the first bolt, then make crux moves to gain the undercut wall. Head left at the first horizontal break, where long reaches between sharp crimps lead to a sloping ledge. The rest is all gravy, hero pulling on great pockets.

Location 

The furthest left bolted route on King Louie's Ledge. This is the ledge immediately left of The Green Pillars.

Protection 

~7 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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The Blarney Stone is the left-most line.