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 ADVANCED
Valley of The Blind
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Black, The S 
Cocked N' Loaded T 
Demise of Mr. Riffraff T 
Fade to Black T 
Falling Down S 
Geshido T,S 
No Shadow of Darkness T 
Pain and Suffering T 
Painted Warrior S 
Spartican T 
Speak No Evil S 
Tomahawk T,S 
Vision Quest S 
Wisdom and Folly S 

The Black 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tony Mayse?
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 1,612
Submitted By: Stephen Nance on Dec 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Tying in for the last time on the black

Description 

Beautiful route that follows the prominent black streak just to the right of painted warrior. This route is the best quality sandstone route I have ever been on. Unlike painted warrior, this route is not made of a broken system of flakes, but rather "molded" in bomber crimps. First pitch is 12b, and second is 12d. Done in 1 pitch it takes the 13a grade (and the only way to do it in my opinion!).


Location 

Painted Wall, just right of painted warrior


Protection 

Draws... 10-11?



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By Tony Mayse
May 15, 2010

This was one of my proudest routes to put up. My wife Lori and I came down on a 38 deg. fall day in 2003 to climb the route in it's entirety in one pitch. This route will always be special to me. I hope everyone enjoys the line as much as I have!

Cheers,

Tony Mayse

By jaybo
May 25, 2013

The Black is a Solid Very good 5.12c There is no reason to do it in 2 pitches