A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.
Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.
The Lower Tier, between The Easy Way and Bag of tricks.
Cams. .4-2, crux takes .4 and .5. Optional 3.5 in a pod turning the roof.
Moving up and out the roof crack
into the crux on the FA
BETA PHOTO: TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...
|By chris magness|
Jun 28, 2012
We'll need a consensus grade here. I was pumped and placing the crux gear and getting it right is damn hard. Two pieces help, it's shallow!
Named for Mike's dog, Friday, who has a feature similar to the roof crack.