|Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
"Water World" during a water shortage, this route climbs up the strange hanging "tube" near the center of the crag. Climb up low angle rock, step right past 2 closely spaced bolts and the massively deceptive crux to gain the start of the "Tube" around the corner and out of sight at the beginning. Worm up the tube using any technique you want, from chimney or stem, or face climb the edges past a few more tricky bulges to a cable anchor. The leader is pretty much out of sight for most of upper half so make sure of your communications before taking anybody off belay, PLEASE!!! We used double ropes and rapped from the anchors at the top of "Dick van Dike" out of sight and a scary scramble to the east (right, facing uphill). We were tempted to just rap from the cable but were a little hesitant because of a few potential "rope eating" features under the anchor.
14-16 clips plus anchors, (175' - a 60m rope required!).
|By Sean Moon|
From: Toyota Tacoma, USA
May 10, 2007
Have a set communcation plan before starting this route for sure. The person at the anchors can not hear you at the bottom (or even half way up the route) shouting at the top of your lungs. I would recommend bringing a pair of radios along if you have the means.
|By Christina kalb|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2008
This was a fun route...but, serious rope drag towards the top. A long sling on the bottom 2 or 3 bolts would help this problem, but leave you in serious trouble of decking if you are not comfortable with slabby 5.10