The Black Streak  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  [J. Heiney, 1999, who beat bolters T. Hanson & S. Sills to the redpoint] Submitted By:  Mark MacClary on Jan 5, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The opening campus moves.

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> As of March 7, 2012: Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May. Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May. Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June. Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May. Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

In my opinion, this is easily one of the top 3 routes at [Castlewood]. It is between The Sub and Seamless.

A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, after the crux, gets rather chossy from the run off, so tread lightly.

Otherwise this is an amazing route, due to the variety of movement, from power down low, to technical in the middle, and a combo of the two will get you through the crux.

Protection 

A stick clip is very important for this line, as the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground and the start goes at around V7. The rest is closely bolted and no worries.

Photos of The Black Streak Slideshow

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The start of the technical crimping.	The crux of the lower face, and a good picture of ...	Sticking the jug.
The start of the crux.	The middle of the crux.	The end of the crux.
The black sneaker.