Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Zippy Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
And Grooving Was Grooving  T 
Black Stallion, The S 
Canalizo T 
Die Young T 
Does Royalty Give Head? T 
Don't T 
Free As Can Be T 
Gargoyle T 
Hans Solo T 
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 
Jedi Master T 
Moustache, The T 
Mr. Maxle S 
New Hamster S 
Shongo Pavi T 
Wild Dream T 

The Black Stallion 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kenton, Card, Moselle Dipane, Alan Galura
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: toddgordon on Jun 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Moselle Dipane on The Black Stallion.


Five bolts to a bolted anchor.


Located just right of Wild Dream.


quick draws only

Photos of The Black Stallion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wild Dream and Black Stallion
BETA PHOTO: Wild Dream and Black Stallion

Comments on The Black Stallion Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Walling
Sep 7, 2013

The anchors on this route do not seem to be on top, but about 10 feet down from the top. What's the deal with that?
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Sep 9, 2013

I believe you can either rap from the anchors there (on top of B.S.) or finish to the top on Wild Dream....I think one finish on the upper headwall is plenty..
Climbers like to share...
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 9, 2014

This route provides some steep, dynamic moves and well placed bolts. Final moves the color and quality of the rock change which possibly had something to do with the anchor placement. Save your rope, clip the anchors and come down. You don't need to dome out on this route. Want to hit the the neighboring route....once the bolts are replaced.
By Murf
Feb 10, 2014

Nabbed an early lead of this one (although they all are at this point). The movement is good, but the rock brings the star count way down. Its bad enough when the crystals are so big they chew your tips like piranha, but when they come along for the ride embedded in your skin, it really brings the fun level down.

Had to take some of the starch out of my buddy KC so I now refer to this one as "Nightmare AKA Black Stallion".

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!