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The Black Rocks

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1B1RP T 
Freriks Is A Daddy T 
My President Is Addicted To War T 
Opportunist, The T 
Preying Mantles T 

The Black Rocks Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Evans on Mar 5, 2003
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The Black Rocks, Joshua Tree NP



The Black Rocks have a half dozen routes that would be considered trad climbing. The rock varies from fair to very good as the black and gray rock at Josh is usually XL. The cliff gets afternoon sun and is a good cold day destination. The main black cliff has 3 established routes the best of which is Freriks is a Daddy 5.10 b/c. It climbs a steep thin seam on the buttress to left of center just right of a clean dihedral. It is similar to "Wired", i.e. technical with thin pro. Tie off a rare Josh "thread" in rotten rock and lieback up and away!

Getting There 

The Vogel guide states: "These very dark-colored cliffs lie on the west side of a small hillside .5 mile E-SE of the Wonderland Ranch (Uncle Willie's) parking area. They lie to the north of the Bighorn Pass Rd., about .6 miles after you pass the turnoff for the Wonderland Ranch parking area. The 3 separate "black" cliffs are fairly obvious". These directions lead to the section of cliff with "Freriks is a Daddy" 5.10 b/c and "Ranking Carl" 5.8. The cliff with the 4 routes listed in the book is actually about 50 meters to the north and is a smaller gray cliff.

Climbing Season

For the Barker Dam Area area.

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Black Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Not his 1000th route!

Freriks Is A Daddy 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Black Rocks
Although the rock at the bottom is not very good it gets better and better. Tie off the thread and start liebacking and side-pulling on up. This route is a lot like "Wired", technical with thin pro, but longer....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Black Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Rocks, Joshua Tree NP
The Black Rocks, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: This crag is north of the Black Cliff about 100 me...
BETA PHOTO: This crag is north of the Black Cliff about 100 me...
Rock Climbing Photo: view of the formation closest to the dirt road
view of the formation closest to the dirt road
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the section that has 1BRP and The Opportun...
BETA PHOTO: This is the section that has 1BRP and The Opportun...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Rocks
BETA PHOTO: The Black Rocks

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By David Evans
Apr 16, 2004
The small photo shows the section with 1B1RP etc. The large top photo shows the left hand crag with "My President is Addicted To War."

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