The Black Pearl  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  FRA Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan - March 31, 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Karsten on Apr 3, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Black Pearl

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Description 

In this unassuming little nook lies one of the best cracks you'll find in the park. The Black Pearl is a classic old-school style testpiece. Superb ebony rock plus a variety of interesting moves and sizes make this one of the best single pitch routes you'll find. I would give it 6 stars if I could.

There are 2 crux sections but the climbing is fairly consistent the entire way. While much of the climbing is wider, the occasional face hold or foot make the climb a more elegant and varied but still physical endeavor.

Location 

Approach:
The climb lies almost directly across the canyon from the Cloud Tower route. Approach up trails as you would to access the brownstone or rainbow wall. As you enter the canyon there is an red-dirt trail that leads out of the wash going up the center of the canyon. Continue on this trail until you pass a huge recently fallen pine on your right. Just after this pine cut rightward off the trail. Go down a grassy slope into a wash. Cross the wash and make your way into a dark recess. The Pearl is on the lefthand side of the recess.

Descent:
From the top of the route you can traverse back (left) to a clump of bushes with a long rope extending over the edge. A double rope rap gets you down.

Protection 

1/2 set of nuts
Singles of small cams to #.75 camalot
Doubles from #1-#4 camalot
Optional #5 and #6 camalot

Anchors at the top take a large cam or some finesse with nuts.

Photos of The Black Pearl Slideshow

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DeAngelo heads for the top.	Karsten, Larry, and the bottom of "Black Pearl." ...	Upper portion of "Black Pearl"
BETA PHOTO: Showing a little more of the route's context.	Karsten starts up the magnificently varnished Blac...	A short finger crack to open the ball.
The beginning of a long and intimate friendship wi...	Approaching the bulge of the upper crux section.	Coming to grips with the bulge.
Established in the Black Pearl's upper crack. Jus...