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Boulder Rock Club
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Black One, The S 

The Black One 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Probably MHong
Season: Any time baby
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: Evan S on Aug 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Start with an awkward layback, reach to single pad positive holds, then up to an akward hug/open hand pinch on a big protruding hold. From there make the big reach to a good grip just over the bulge. Surpass this obstacle then finish on thin but mostly positive holds to the anchors.


Location 

In the back room, on the east wall.


Protection 

Gym draws.



Comments on The Black One Add Comment
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By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Aug 26, 2009

I really hope none of you take this seriously. Although, maybe we could start a new trend here on MP. Hummmhh...

By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 26, 2009

Give it up while you're 'ahead' there, EVS.
Gym climbing doesn't count, period...especially on the MP.
Try rockclimbing.com for some sympathy....
Or go outside for some fresh air- chalk dust can clog the brain waves!

By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Aug 26, 2009

Really? I mean, really? What part of "I really hope none of you take this seriously" didn't you understand? Humor is lost on so many poor souls...sad.

By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Aug 27, 2009

Sorry Eli, didn't mean anything by that, slap on wrist, Leo put me in my place...but the damn route stays!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

You sandbagger.

Maybe a foothold broke or something. The chalk dust may have been particularly thick that day.

Definitely straight 11.

By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Nov 22, 2009

Strangely enough, geological forces seem to move quite quickly here, the route has completely changed in character and is now unrecognizable, it's even a different color, how peculiar.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X

Evan-
I noticed that. What an amazing thing--to be present at such a remarkable event. Luckily, the alteration has left us with an equally impressive route, which is the norm for this crag. Phil's right. I think the new route is around 11b. Enjoy!