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Whitewall Mountain (East side of Zealand Notch Itself)
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Black Knight , The T 
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Lady Slippers T 
Red Queen (unfinished), The T 

The Black Knight  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Teresa Nagle and Bradley White, June, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 20, 2010

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Last pitch above last crux (5.6). Far from the cli...

Description 

Cannon Cliff and Whitewall are alike except for Whitewall facing west is more weathered.
Climb starts right of the northern head wall where the steepest rock of buttress meets the ground. Above is an alcove with cracks I went up to vault right 5.7 crux onto the open face easily up and through an overhang to the tree ledge belay in the shade.
Next traversed up left to scree on ridge very loose to trees up right.
Third was short steep to diagonal left upward by breaks in rocks until below shallow up book for belay.
Up the book to another wide book and belayed.
Up this book to the outcrop rock Black Knight and belayed.
Teresa led last pitch up the outside of the wall right with a couple of blocks on it.
Belay above cliff was challenging for Teresa to find and she did alright up left were decent crack protection.
Midway up the ridge lots of access by other way from the ground up. The outside of open books are bulging corners of high difficulty, and likely well protected.
We has serious fun it was easier and like Cannon's WGR. We went the path of least resistance. There are many possible variations more exposed and harder to climb.

Location 

Central north side, maneuver downward until there is a steep outcropping of white granite to the right and up higher the inside alcove corner right of an off width crack slab with a birch tree growing below them is the landmark. There were loose rocks to start dangerously near the birch tree.

Protection 

TCU's were used the most. Lots of trees for anchors. Rappelling is a bad idea because of the many loose stones. Likely dangerously doable. We brought two 40m ropes one thin lightweight and the other thicker durable. Most pitches were 80ft.? and 2nd pitch scree was 120ft.
No descent trail. The descent is down scree field north or left from finish off the cliff. Best to stay near to go across above the cliffs until easy to get to scree and its a long walk down to the trail.
We headed for Mt. Whitewall's summit with it's sign in W.M.N.F. cache. Beautiful woods acres of rare Lady Slippers blooming. We went here hoping to find signs of a trail down. No trail and we bushwhacked down and away from gullies cascades. After that, directly down through horribly hurtful tree covered rock forest to the trail. No disabling injuries beside our scrapes and scratches from pine trees.


Photos of The Black Knight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch. Above this edge is the first talus fiel...
2nd pitch. Above this edge is the first talus fiel...
Rock Climbing Photo: ZeaCliff
ZeaCliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa getting rid of the rope drag.
Teresa getting rid of the rope drag.
Rock Climbing Photo: Terrain above the Black Knight.
Terrain above the Black Knight.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st. pitch
1st. pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The free standing pillar, (the Black Knight).
The free standing pillar, (the Black Knight).
Rock Climbing Photo: This ledge has excellent climbing on it. After tha...
This ledge has excellent climbing on it. After tha...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Knight. It's got a lot of solid weight o...
The Black Knight. It's got a lot of solid weight o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crescendo finish. Teresa slinging a rock horn.
Crescendo finish. Teresa slinging a rock horn.
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th pitch, second crux (5.6) is one technical move...
4th pitch, second crux (5.6) is one technical move...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scenery. Photo taken at the southwest spur slab.
Scenery. Photo taken at the southwest spur slab.
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch.
3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near to the beginning of the first crux or it is w...
Near to the beginning of the first crux or it is w...
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch.
3rd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Best I've got for now of Mt. Whitewall northern pa...
Best I've got for now of Mt. Whitewall northern pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Central wall of pillared bulwarks.
Central wall of pillared bulwarks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan Pond Slab. 300+ft. Photographer Teresa Nagle...
Ethan Pond Slab. 300+ft. Photographer Teresa Nagle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Central Slab. The furthest down edge appears a pla...
Central Slab. The furthest down edge appears a pla...
Rock Climbing Photo: Self portrait done below the southwest spur slab. ...
Self portrait done below the southwest spur slab. ...

Comments on The Black Knight Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 21, 2010

Looks Cool Bradley, keep'em coming!

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