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 ADVANCED
Earwax Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antidote S 
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 
Domestic Violence T 
Earwax T 
Killslug S 
Raggedy Andy S 
Raggedy Anne S 
Sideshow S 
Slugshow S 
Soul on Ice S 
Young Cynics S 

The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Hirst, Jon Nelson (5/2014)
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 3, 2014

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Some nice positive edges on The Black Flag of the ...

Description 

Continuous thin edging up a slightly less than vertical wall. The most thoughtful part may be between the 2nd and 4th bolt, but the climbing never really eases up. Despite it being relatively short, expect to get pumped near the end. No good rests, but lots of good holds.

Start by gaining the top of the large flake resting against the wall. The easiest way is on the left side, but several more challenging ways are possible. Then start on Sideshow. The first two bolts are shared with Sideshow. After the second bolt, veer left to the base of a groove and crack feature, then go up. Finish about 10' right of where Domestic violence crosses the roof.

You can probably traverse left to the Domestic roof and continue up that route, if the bottom part of Domestic is seeping.

Location 

Same start as Sideshow. Look for the bolts just above the large flake leaning against the wall.

Protection 

8 bolts.The top anchor has fixed biners on two bolts.


Photos of The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin Slideshow Add Photo
Eric at the top anchor on The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin.
Eric at the top anchor on The Black Flag of the Sc...
Looking down from the top of The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin (5.10+).
Looking down from the top of The Black Flag of the...
Nicola Masciandaro on The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin (10+).
Nicola Masciandaro on The Black Flag of the Schwar...

Comments on The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin Add Comment
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By Eric Hirst
May 3, 2014

Really fun climbing! Highly recommended for anyone in the area, and a great warmup for the hard stuff nearby. I'd give it 4 stars if it were longer.

Note that we swapped out the old SMC hangers from the first 2 Sideshow bolts, but did not replace these bolts. They seem OK.
By Nicola Masciandaro
Jul 29, 2014

Primo crimp cruise. Would that it were infinitely long and return to the base unnecessary.
By Ben Gilkison
Sep 8, 2014

Excellent route Eric and Jon! Flake boulder now has a bolt for a direct start. This adds some nice 5.10 climbing up the center of the flake. Relevant for both "The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin" and "Sideshow".