The Bjornstad Traverse
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 920', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b C2 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 13/14th April 2001|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||4,756|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Apr 9, 2001|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
On the traverse...... climbing with Mr Ace Hardwar...
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AKA The Girdle Traverse of Castleton
The climb has some wild situations, and perhaps an unusual experience for localized climbers. I would suggest that before you knock it .. try it... The climb starts at the Kor- Ingalls. The traverse uses 4 pitches of established climbs and 5 new pitches.Named after guide book writer Eric Bjornstad.This shoud now go in a day.
P1. Pitch 1 Kor route. 5.6 140'
P2. Move belay to right to join P2 Arrowhead Left. Climb this pitch to top of the Arrowhead(junction with Stardust Cowboy). 5.10. 100'
P3. The long Ed Webster bolt ladder of Stardust is followed, then up to the right to belay overlooking North Chimney. 110'
P4. Climb down 20', then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 on the North Chimney. Traverse right across the slab to the bolt rap/lower (might need second bolt for the nervous), and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 on the North Face route. 110'
P5. Up ledges to the right, then climb down 12' to a beautifully exposed narrow slab traverse line (some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers, nut and washers in place - bring a half inch wrench, or use wires). Follow the slab crossing the Sun, Moon, and Stars route to an anchor overlooking The West Face route. 110' 5.9+ C1 (With pro now in place it should go all free)
P6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
P7. Follow a thin crack up and right to the belay around the corner. C1 5.3
P8. The long superb exposed crack is followed across the West Face to a belay overlooking the Kor route. 80' 5.9 C1
P9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. C1 170'
Two sets of cams from Metolius 00 to #4 friend, many biners for the Webster bolt ladder. Some stoppers.
Paul Ross on the eight pitch of the First Ascent B...
The Traverse.. South Face section
The Bjorstad Traverse. West Face section
The Traverse . North Face section
Jeff Pheasant on pitch 8, following the exposed tr...
Jun 30, 2006
.To date (2014) there has been no claim of a second ascent.