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Castleton Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrowhead, The T 
Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower), The T 
Black Sun T 
Burning Inside T 
Discrete Start to Black Sun T 
Hollowpoint T 
Kor-Ingalls Route T 
North Chimney T 
North Face T 
North Face Original Pitch 1 T 
Sacred Ground T 
Stardust Cowboy T 
West Face T 

The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 920', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent 13/14th April 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,256
Submitted By: USBRIT on Apr 9, 2001

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On the traverse...... climbing with Mr Ace Hardwar...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

AKA The Girdle Traverse of Castleton

The climb has some wild situations, and perhaps an unusual experience for localized climbers. .. try it... The climb starts at the Kor- Ingalls. The traverse uses 4 pitches of established climbs and 5 new pitches.Might go in full day.This climb is dedicated to the desert climber and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad.

P1. Pitch 1 Kor route. 5.6 140'
P2. Move belay to right to join P2 Arrowhead Left. Climb this pitch to top of the Arrowhead(junction with Stardust Cowboy). 5.10. 100'
P3. The long Ed Webster bolt ladder of Stardust is followed, then up to the right to belay overlooking North Chimney. 110'
P4. Climb down 20', then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 on the North Chimney. A traverse right was made across the slab on the right to a bolt at the end of the slab.Lowered down from this , and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 on the North Face route. 110'
P5. Up ledges to the right, then climb down 12' to a beautifully exposed narrow slab traverse line (some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers, nut and washers in place - bring a half inch wrench, or use wires). Follow the slab crossing the Sun, Moon, and Stars route to an anchor overlooking The West Face route. 110' 5.9+ C1 (With pro now in place it should go all free)
P6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
P7. Follow a thin crack up and right to the belay around the corner. C1 5.3
P8. The long superb exposed crack is followed across the West Face to a belay overlooking the Kor route. 80' 5.9 C1
P9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. C1 170'


Paul Ross.

Protection 

Two sets of cams from Metolius 00 to #4 friend, many biners for the Webster bolt ladder. Some stoppers.


Photos of The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Ross on the eight pitch of the First Ascent. ...
Paul Ross on the eight pitch of the First Ascent. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Traverse . North Face section
The Traverse . North Face section
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bjorstad Traverse. West Face section
The Bjorstad Traverse. West Face section
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Ross on third pitch 110'...The Webster bolt ...
P.Ross on third pitch 110'...The Webster bolt ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Traverse.. South Face section
The Traverse.. South Face section
Rock Climbing Photo: On the FA 2001
On the FA 2001
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Pheasant on pitch 8, following the exposed tr...
Jeff Pheasant on pitch 8, following the exposed tr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Pheasant coming up to the belay at the end of...
Jeff Pheasant coming up to the belay at the end of...

Comments on The Bjornstad Traverse ( The Girdle of Castleton Tower) Add Comment
Show which comments
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jun 30, 2006

2016...It is now 15 years after the first traverse/ascent and still no claim of a second ascent.
Is adventure a thing of the past?
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Dec 19, 2014

Friend, desert pioneer and guide book writer Eric Bjornstad died 17th December 2014.

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