The Birth of the Blot
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This route has jugs, slopers, crimps, a finger lock and a heel hook, sound fun to you? Its great!
Start with left hand on the jug with your right hand in the finger lock in the crack as for The Blot (V2). Move left through crimps below the bulge and slopers on the lip. I used a heel hook for these moves. The crux is fighting the barn door when removing the heel hook. Once removed the heel hook get your feet back under you and pull over the bulge on crimps to an easy less than vertical highball top out.
This problem climbs under and around the bulge that makes up the left wall of the dihedral of The Blot (V2).
On the Pound Crack Boulder, start as for The Blot (V2) and traverse left under the bulge and then pull the left and top out up slightly dirty rock.
There is a rock you could fall on when pulling the bulge so pads and spotters are good.
Big move left to good crimp.
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 10, 2013
Hey Mike, i see you have been working on this some. What do you think the grade is going to settle at? No that I have tried this numerous times I think it will be harder than v4. What you thinking? Have you sent yet? Which beta are you trying lately?