Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Billboard

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Flyers S 
Apetizer S 
Atmosphere S 
Beeline S 
Blue Mask, The S 
Bubba Gump S 
Death of a Sailsman S 
Eating the Gun S 
Erection or Ejection S 
Invisible Man, The S 
Invitation to the Blues S 
Monkey Brains S 
Music for Chameleons S 
One, The S 
Shining, The S 
Small Change S 
This Must Be The Pickle S 
To Hell on a Rocket S 
Unknown S 

The Billboard  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 6,703
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2003
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Partly Cloudy
40° | 25°
Mostly Cloudy
41° | 30°
Overcast
41° | 33°
Snow
38° | 37°
Rain
41° | 32°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
The resting pod for Atmosphere, The Blue Mask and ...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11. What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival. Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on. This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a South facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.

Getting There 

Who knows how to get here. If you park about .2 miles from the Little Mill campground, then there is a cairned trail on the left that heads up to The Billboard; it's a bit past the parking spot. The trail is lousy, steep, and easily lost. Furthermore, if it is dry outside, then the trail becomes very loose. Poke along, keep your eyes open, carry what you need. The trail will eventually get you to the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',8],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Billboard:
Invitation to the Blues   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Music for Chameleons   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Erection or Ejection   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
American Flyers   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The One   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Death of a Sailsman   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Beeline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Apetizer   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
This Must Be The Pickle   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Billboard

Featured Route For The Billboard
the lip traverse shared by Atmosphere, The Blue Ma...

The Blue Mask 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Billboard
Climb Atmosphere through the pod, out to the lip, and onto the headwall. Once on the headwall break left and immediately into the infamous crux lunge. Traverse straight left through amazing sequences on stellar pockets. Catch a breather and execute a difficult mantle before clipping the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on The Billboard Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 14, 2009
In reality this is no more than a 20 minute hike- 15 if you're fit. Not a big deal at all.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2011
To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area. This pullout is located about 100 yds down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (faint). If using the Ruckman guidebook, page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says "Little Mill Campground, one way" should say Saw Mill Picnic Area.