The Billboard Rock Climbing
Tyson Marshall pulling out onto the head wall.
The Billboard is one of the most difficult crags in AF, both for the difficulty of the routes and for the heinous approach. While it certainly hosts a lot of hard climbs, there are also climbs for we mortals, although nothing is easier than 5.11. What can be useful here is that many of the routes share anchors, so it is often possible to lead up a moderate line and get the draws on a more difficult one. The limestone is fairly typical of AF overall, and it is easy to get on 5.11/5.12 of comparable quality, without the hike. However, if you are looking for 5.13 and hard 13, then the Hell cave is probably the only rival. Erection or Ejection, Death of a Sailsman, Beeline, Apetizer all tick in close to 11d/12a and are excellent. I'm sure that the hardmen can identify the optimal testpieces, but even for the moderate routes, the hike was worth it for the good stone, scenic view, relative isolation, and the feel of being in a place where some real climbing goes on. This is one of the top crags in AF. A dozen draws and a 50 meter rope will handle nearly everything, although we have had to rap down in two stages on at least one route. This is a South facing crag, and high in the canyon, so bring lots of water.
Who knows how to get here. If you park about .2 miles from the Little Mill campground, then there is a cairned trail on the left that heads up to The Billboard; it's a bit past the parking spot. The trail is lousy, steep, and easily lost. Furthermore, if it is dry outside, then the trail becomes very loose. Poke along, keep your eyes open, carry what you need. The trail will eventually get you to the crag.
Weather station 0.1 miles from here
19 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Billboard
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Billboard
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Billboard:
The One 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Beeline 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Apetizer 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Billboard
Atmosphere 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : The Billboard
Start on the arete in the cave, right of center. Grab 2 jugs above your head and execute big moves on good holds for 4 bolts up to a pair of pocket jugs under a shelf. This is the split between the Shining (go right) and Atmosphere (go left). Do some up-side-down shenanigans to gain the large pod and a rest. Climb from the pod out to the lip and move left for two bolts. Establish on the headwall and another rest. This is the split between The Blue Mask (go left), The Invisible Man (go up, then l...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
From: SL UT
Jun 14, 2009
In reality this is no more than a 20 minute hike- 15 if you're fit. Not a big deal at all.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2011
To find the trail, park on the right hand side of the road (heading up canyon) in a small pullout, .2 miles from the Saw Mill Picnic area. This pullout is located about 100 yds down canyon from the first entrance to the Little Mill Campground. The trail is located across the road from the pull out and up canyon about 100 feet (faint). If using the Ruckman guidebook, page 69 is accurate except that the road on the right that says "Little Mill Campground, one way" should say Saw Mill Picnic Area.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 18, 2015
Jeremy's directions are spot on. The trail is pretty decent now, not sure what it was like 10 years ago but it's easy to follow now and like brad says, it's maybe 15-20 minutes, not 30-40 like ruckmans suggest. Had no problems finding the crag my first time